kingr
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| posted on 20/5/04 at 10:28 AM |
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R1 HT leads
Hello,
All this talk of changing the lengths of HT leads has got me thinking that I'd be better off sorting mine out rather than just making do with
the original ones. The problem is that unlike the fireblade ones, I can't see any obvious way of removing the old leads from the coils on my R1
coils. Do they come apart and if so, how? There seems to be a plastic retainer clip that goes across both wires and clips in four places, but I sure
as hell can't get it out. Any tips would be gratefully received.
Kingr
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OX
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| posted on 20/5/04 at 09:00 PM |
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i couldnt get mine out either ,so i mounted them on a plate and put the plate on the airbox
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Ferrino
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| posted on 18/10/05 at 04:38 PM |
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Old post, I know, but has anyone managed to fit longer HT leads to the R1 coils?
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smart51
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| posted on 18/10/05 at 05:18 PM |
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my HT leads look like they clip into the coils though I havn't tried removing them. I couldn't find out how to do it when I wanted to
measure the resistance of the coils though.
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Ferrino
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| posted on 18/10/05 at 07:41 PM |
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Hmmmm, there was also a mention of some adapters, which allow you to insert a section of new HT lead in between the existing lead and the plug cap -
anyone used this? Would mean you don't have to remove the leads from the coil.....
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mnr laptop
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| posted on 18/10/05 at 08:30 PM |
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yep the leads are sealed into the coils, i have used the joiners as they are allegedly suppressed also for sva, but we ran them at brands and
struggled with the leads arcing out to each other
ended up isulating each joiner with rubber hose to stop this and then they seemed to be fine
best regards
marc
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Ferrino
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| posted on 18/10/05 at 10:53 PM |
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Where can you buy these 'joiners' from please?
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Coose
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| posted on 19/10/05 at 09:44 AM |
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Avoid joiners at all costs - they're evil! 
What you need to do is remove the lead retaining clip (which WILL break) and pull the lead out of the coil - they're retained by sealant. Then,
buy a length of new lead from your local motor factors, chop it to length and smear the end of the outer insulation with araldite. Then insert the end
of the lead into the coil, pushing firmly so that the pin inside the coil makes a good contact with the core of the lead. Allow the araldite to go
off, fit your caps and there you have it!
Job done, with no messy joiners! 
Spin 'er off Well...
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Ferrino
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| posted on 19/10/05 at 11:28 AM |
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Cheers Coosey - will give that a go! How does the new HT lead attach to the spark plug cap?
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Coose
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| posted on 19/10/05 at 12:39 PM |
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The cap screws off the old lead and screws back on to the new one! There is what looks like a wood-screw in the cap the protrudes into the core of the
HT lead.
It may seem like you're being brutal when you remove the old lead from the coil, but don't worry - all will become apparent once you get
the first one out....
Spin 'er off Well...
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Ferrino
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| posted on 20/10/05 at 11:29 PM |
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Brilliant - thanks - whipped the old leads out and now need to order some new ones: VWP sell 2 types of 7mm lead:
1. Copper core, PVC insulation
2. Carbon core, Silicone insulation
Linky HERE
Someone is suggesting HERE
that copper is the best core to get a good connection on the spikes of the coil?
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Coose
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 08:47 AM |
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Yep. Use copper.....
Spin 'er off Well...
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andy d (rizla)
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| posted on 21/10/05 at 12:56 PM |
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i fitted carbon leads on the blade from halfords,it means you loose less plug kv than copper and thus a better spark/burn
easy to fit the carbon ones,but i should have got yellow
 
Rescued attachment leads.jpg
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