RickRick
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 posted on 31/3/09 at 02:20 PM |
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R1 5VY sending me over the edge!
Right i've got my sva booked for 3 weeks time, and my engine won't run.
i've tried different ecu and different throttle body assembly.
i just don't know what else it could be, it's turning over and firing sometimes but it won't start
any more idea's?? anyone fancy a trip to cleveleys to show me the one tiny bit i've missed (hopfully)
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fesycresy
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 02:29 PM |
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Do you have a pressure regulator fitted to the return fuel line ?
You may not have enough continuous pressure at the TB's.
The fuel may just be by-passing and going straight back to the tank ?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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dan__wright
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 02:30 PM |
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do you have the following:
clutch / side stand / run switch all bypassed
tip sensor
100ohm resistor (dont know if the r1 needs this or not?)
do you have original clocks? can you get any fault codes?
any spark or injection?
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ko_racer
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 02:57 PM |
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Can't rememebr if you said you had Clock or not, I take it you are getting no error codes?
Try unplugging each sensor one at a time (expcet the Crank Position sensor and cam position sensor which is on the rocker cover) If it starts with
one sensor off that one may be giving false readings.
Might also be worth trying to borrow a crank position sensor, start inhibitor relay too.
Can you tell me the part code on the loom and on the ecu? The loom should end with 00 form memory if it's a US one and the ecu should have a 2
digit/letter code in big letters
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RickRick
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 03:10 PM |
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OK i'm sure i've got all the sidestand/clutch switches sorted out, i've got them all linked out apart from the sidestand, and
when i earth that i can hear the starter relay click over.
it's turning over fine, and firing which suggests to me the stater relay has been activated
I'm using the regulator on the TB's which is on the return side so that's as bike setup, and my return lines free flowing
i don't have the origonal clocks or the wiring for them so i can't see any error codes
The ECU is a BO i don't have any lables left on the loom, and since it's turning over and firing i'm thinking the start inhibit
relay is working?!?
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A1
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 03:29 PM |
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if number 30 comes up on the clocks, the lean angle switch is stopping it. when i first started mine, there was nothing happening for ages, we changed
the plugs and everything. try using a decent amount of easy start, it got ours going, had no problems since.
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adithorp
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 03:35 PM |
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If it's turning and sparking it's not the inhibit switches.
Could be the tilt switch...
1. Have you got it the right way up (UP on the top)?
2. Have you glued it? If so, check it didn't move before the glue set (mine did).
3. Have you tried another one?
Fuel pressure would give these symptoms as well. Have you got fuel pressure (my brand new pump ran the engine once then lost pressure but still
buzzed)? If you switch on you should hear it pressurise the system and then stop. Then switch off and, very carefully, remove the feed pipe from the
fuel rail. You should get a little spurt of residual pressure and not just a dribble. If not...
1. Check your feed and return pipes are the right way around (return from the regulator end); One member on here who should know better spent a week
trying to find that one.
2.Try it with the return blocked to check its not the relief valve (it will run, but only do it briefly).
3. Is your fuel pick-up clear? A blockage here would do it.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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RickRick
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 03:55 PM |
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i'm 90% sure it's not the tilt switch it's glued, and checked, but the fuel pump won't run when the tilt switch is
"tilted" guess how i know.......
i've not checked the fuel filter but i've had the hose off, it's definatly making some pressure, if the fuel reg's working
right it's pumping more than the fuel reg allows as it'll pour out without the return line on
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andy o
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 04:10 PM |
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hi,mine would turn over and fire now and then.it turned out that the ht/coils were on wrong ie no1 on no4,swaped them round and hey presto!
andy
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RickRick
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 04:30 PM |
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that's somthing that i've tried changing but it only seems to make things worse. could someone tell me the order of the coil wire
colour's from the cam chain end, but check them before the connector as sometimes they are supplied switched around.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 05:13 PM |
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Tried new plugs?
Phil
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RickRick
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 05:20 PM |
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yup tried new plugs but the old ones looked fine too
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RickRick
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 05:39 PM |
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i should have said i have had it running just at idle for a minute or 2 afte that it's not started again
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minitici
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 07:05 PM |
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I managed a little progress in trying to get my R1 5vy started today.
I'm now getting sparks 
The supplied stripped out harness had a missing connection from the ECU to the chassis.
The engine appears to be getting plenty fuel - plugs are now soaking 
I've got a new set of plugs coming tomorrow.
On turning over I'm getting pops and bangs from the exhaust but no hint of an engine kick. (I think the combustion is in the exhaust rather than
the cylinders - still some loose y-piece joints in the exhaust system).
Like you I'm hoping that the coil wiring / numbering is correct.
From what I see coil #1 is at the cam chain end and is connected to pin3 of the ECU by the orange wire.
Coil #2 is connected to pin23 by the grey/red wire
Coil #3 is connected to pin2 by the orange/green wire
Coil #4 is connected to pin 1 by the grey/green wire.
Hope this is correct?
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RickRick
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 07:37 PM |
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eeek sounds close to my problem there's definatly no lack of fuel if anything it's flooding. you might need to swap 1 and 4 and 2 and
3 pops and bangs sounds like incorrect firing order, i can make that happen too!
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mark chandler
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 07:53 PM |
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Big bike engines are an absolute PITA once flooded....
When I went to Lydden Hill two weeks ago, drove to the start, engine stalled and absolutely would not start, pulled the plugs spun the engine over to
dry, plugs back in nothing..... tried this many times, you convince yourself something else must be at fault.
In the end used a gas cooker to heat the plugs right up, popped back in while to hot to handle and started instantly on all 4 cylinders, fine for the
rest of the day.
If this does not resolve things then I would suggest you isolate items.
unplug the fuel pump, and useeasy start as fuel, squirting a little of this in to the TB's when cranking, if it fires and runs then electrics
are all good.
Plug the fuel pump back in, off with the TB's from the block and crank over, you should see a mist of fuel squirting (take care, have an
extinquisher handy) from each injector.
You can lose compression by washing down the bores with fuel, a small amount of oil down each plug hole then turn the engine over should restore
this.
Maybe it just needs new plugs, you may have got a dodgy batch.
One good rule with bike engines, do not start and run for short periods of time, once running leave to warm up properly even if just shunting around
the garage.
Regards Mark
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adithorp
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 08:18 PM |
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5VY R1 cylinders are numbered by Yamaha from the left as mounted in the bike. IE, No4 is timing chain end.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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quinnj3
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 08:49 PM |
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Don't remember if you said this but have you checked all the earths are tight and not put on over paint? I've found bad earths are a real
pain in the A hole. Hope you get things sorted soon. Stick at it!
my aim is to build my own locost wether it takes me a week or 10 years to get started, i'm sure i will sometime
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RickRick
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 08:04 AM |
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all earths are direct to the battery
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minitici
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 08:21 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
5VY R1 cylinders are numbered by Yamaha from the left as mounted in the bike. IE, No4 is timing chain end.
adrian
That will explain why my engine is firing in the exhaust!
I will need to re-route my wiring harness to swap the plug order
 
R1 5vy Cylinder Numbering
Just been out and swapped the wiring over and guess what? - it fired and ran 1st time 
[Edited on 1/4/09 by minitici]
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JDScott
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 12:36 PM |
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If you've tried starting the car so many times it may be as simple as a flat battery. 2mins running will not have recharged the battery after
starting the car.
Also, Starter (negative) should be connected to chassis not direct to battery and the battery (negative) connected to this.
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RickRick
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 01:39 PM |
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batterys fine, its normaly boosted by a charger during start attempts, and topped up with an optimate clone.
i have an extra earth from the engine mount back to the battery, started earths though this
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RickRick
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 02:12 PM |
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so any other suggestions, oil in the bores, and nice hot plugs is about the best i've got to try at the moment
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stuart_g
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| posted on 3/4/09 at 08:16 AM |
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I don't know where you got your engine and wiring loom from but what ECU are you using. If it is the one from the bike the engine came from then
the 5VY engine has an immobiliser in it which will only work if you have the original key and barrel from the bike, as you do not have the clocks you
would not be able to see this.
MNR had to get me an ECU for this reason as the barrel was damaged on the bike it came from rendering the ECU useless.
Just a thought as you seem to have tried everything else.
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minitici
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| posted on 3/4/09 at 10:24 AM |
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Luckily the 5vy ECU I was trying to get running had been supplied / modified by Track Electronics therefore did not have an immobiliser or the Exup
wiring (stripped to the bare minimum for racing).
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