lsdweb
|
| posted on 10/12/08 at 09:59 PM |
|
|
Engine Position
Hi All
My Westfield chassis is now straight and coming back together again.
What do you think about this for the engine position?
Wyn
 
Rescued attachment DSCF7816.JPG
|
|
|
|
|
jacko
|
| posted on 10/12/08 at 10:03 PM |
|
|
The engine needs turning so the prop is more in line with the tunnel
and moving back if needed remove the diagonal box
[Edited on 10/12/08 by jacko]
|
|
|
lsdweb
|
| posted on 10/12/08 at 10:06 PM |
|
|
Thanks Jacko - aparrently it needs a bit of misalignment to ensure the prop joints work OK.
|
|
|
jacko
|
| posted on 10/12/08 at 10:10 PM |
|
|
This is how i did Roadruners engine
Jacko
 
fitted engine
|
|
|
jacko
|
| posted on 10/12/08 at 10:15 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by lsdweb
Thanks Jacko - aparrently it needs a bit of misalignment to ensure the prop joints work OK.
 
gear lever,bearing mount
The plate on the side is were the prop bolts too
[Edited on 10/12/08 by jacko]
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 10/12/08 at 10:30 PM |
|
|
As i understand it the engine and diff' flanges should be parallel to each other but not perfectly in line with each other.
For instance the engine flange could be higher than the diff' but both at 90' to the centre line.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
designer
|
| posted on 10/12/08 at 11:14 PM |
|
|
The centreline of the engine and diff should be parallel to the centreline of the car.
|
|
|
Jon Ison
|
| posted on 11/12/08 at 04:47 AM |
|
|
Mine was/is exactly the same as your 1st picture except much further back, been ok since 2002 with no issues.
|
|
|
Flamez
|
| posted on 11/12/08 at 05:52 AM |
|
|
Hi wyn, are you powdercoating the chassis because i need some panels doing and perhaps we can reduce the cost.
my build mac1motorsports
|
|
|
motorcycle_mayhem
|
| posted on 11/12/08 at 08:48 AM |
|
|
Really, the engine would be better in the passenger seat area, but if you've got to put it where you've indicated, I'll comment on
that specifically:
Straighten the engine up a tad. Ideal will be a propshaft a couple of degrees off centre, with all drive flanges parallel with their partners. It
won't happen, but you'll get close.
If you've got a reverse gearbox, it's a 3-piece shaft in effect, so you can get the ideal angles and parallelity in the middle and diff.
with minor compromises at the engine end. If it's a centre bearing job, then it's a general compromise at both ends. It'll all work,
whatever, so don't worry too much.
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 11/12/08 at 09:34 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by lsdweb
aparrently it needs a bit of misalignment to ensure the prop joints work OK.
this has been said before - last time it was to stop the UJ seizing.
Well I thought about it and cannot see why that is the case.
With regards to seizing due to lack of movement - so what ? If they aren;t moving and don't need to move then it makes no difference if they
are seized or not?
maybe its time for a google ......
|
|
|
twybrow
|
| posted on 11/12/08 at 12:50 PM |
|
|
I spoke to Bailey Morris about this issue, and they said the following...
If the misalignment is 0-4 degress, no appreciable problem at all, 5-7 degrees is getting dodgy, and above 7 degrees is a big no no. It has taken me
months of blood, sweat and tears to turn my engine, which was sat paralell to the engine bay diaganol. I couldn't get it perfectly aligned with
the centreline, but it is now around 3 degrees which BM said is ok.
|
|
|
rj
|
| posted on 11/12/08 at 01:05 PM |
|
|
I suggest you fit the exhaust manifold, as well as prop , and try bonnet in place, when i decided on my engine possition it was largley dictated by
the exhaust manifold
|
|
|
lsdweb
|
| posted on 11/12/08 at 09:47 PM |
|
|
Thanks All
I think I've got it!
Phil (FlameZ) - a quick brush coat of Hammerite probably for me - no fancy powdercoating! There was a guy in Skewen who was very good and prices were
good too. Let me know if you want details.
Regards
Wyn
|
|
|
