Avoneer
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 10:50 PM |
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If this will assist anyone,
The paddle shift has 1/2" movement from middle to fully forward and 1/2" middle to fully backward.
The end of my gear lever selector moves 1" up and 1" down.
Does that help?
Pat...
P.S. I understand how wrong my linkge is now as the short arm reaches a point where it can no longer rotate and it is just being pulled towards the
steering wheel - thanks OX.
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Rorty
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
I tried with this piece of wood.
The only places I could get a proper full shift were with thejoints on A and B.
The paddles have very minimal movement and have to move the lower gear selector arm a long way.
I guess I am showing my non-engineering background here!
Pat 
Pat, re-read my earlier post about lever lengths and ratios. You're basically copying the ratio of that existing upper lever which is all
wrong.
I would start with a clean sheet of paper, so to speak, and begin down at the bike's shift lever. Use a Jubilee clip to attach (and alter if
necessary) a link onto the shiftersay, about 60mm from the shaft. Then work back towards the paddle keeping all the levers the same length.
Finally, make the very last L long in the vertical plane and drill lots of holes in it. you can then attach the paddle actuator rod to the various
holes to gain the desired feel.
Once that's done, even the lever lengths out for the final set-up.
As a last resort, you could weld a nut to the pivot of the last lever and screw a bolt into it (with the little BJ stud welded to its top). That way
you can make fine adjustments to the ratio after it's all installed to compensate for stiction/aging etc. Just lock the bolt in place with a jam
nut to prevent it wobbling about.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Avoneer
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:08 PM |
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Sorry Rorty, struggling with this one.
So I leave the arm that is splined onto the gear box alone and the the rose joint on the end of it and just concentrate on the "L" shaped
rocker and moving the rod that comes vertically up from the end of the gear box selector arm?
Pat...
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Avoneer
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:10 PM |
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Or, move the rose joint on the end of the shifter towards the centre spindle?
Pat...
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However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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OX
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
as the short arm reaches a point where it can no longer rotate and it is just being pulled towards the steering wheel - thanks OX.
hehe np..if only i'd explained in a way like you just have 
[Edited on 7/10/05 by OX]
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Rorty
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:15 PM |
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Pat, what distance is the gap between the front of the paddle (where your fingers connect with it) to the front of the steering wheel (where your
fingers normally rest)?
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Avoneer
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:24 PM |
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Not got the wheel on yet as waiting to weld on my posh boss (that'll be another long post no doubt).
But, the paddle is adjustable by about 3" up and down the top of the shaft, making the paddle to bell crank actuator arm very adjustable.
Does that help?
Pat...
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However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Rorty
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Sorry Rorty, struggling with this one.
So I leave the arm that is splined onto the gear box alone and the the rose joint on the end of it and just concentrate on the "L" shaped
rocker and moving the rod that comes vertically up from the end of the gear box selector arm?
Pat...
Forget all the existing lever lengths and start afresh. If the shifter lever on your engine's selector shaft is alloy, remove it and fit a steel
one. That way you can tack a length of "holey flat bar" to it until you resolve the set-up. You can always weld a neater looking lever
onto the splined boss later and either paint it or plate it.
Start with a rod connected about 50mm-60mm from the selector shaft and try to keep the next lever symetrical but make both arms of the upper lever
longer and from "holey flat bar".
If you find the paddle has too great an advantage over the upper lever, adjust (make longer) the effective length of the horizontal arm of the upper
lever.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Rorty
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Not got the wheel on yet as waiting to weld on my posh boss (that'll be another long post no doubt).
But, the paddle is adjustable by about 3" up and down the top of the shaft, making the paddle to bell crank actuator arm very adjustable.
Does that help?
Pat...
That's sensible. You just don't want a situation where the paddle moves so far that your fingers are struggling to operate the paddle. The
paddle should only just move enough to snick the gears into place.
If you get the set-up wrong, it can be very tiresome to drive.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Avoneer
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:37 PM |
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Right,
So I need to:
1) Holey flat bar coming from the spline of the gearbox.
2) Rodded rose joint from one of these holes vertically up to the horizontal holey bar of the rocker arm.
3) Vertical holey bar of the rocker arm (assuming we are going for an "L" shaped rocker arm) connected to the paddles via another rose
jointed rod.
4) Both rose joints on both arms of the rocker arm equal distance from the pivot point of the rocker arm - to start with.
5) Start by moving rose joint on the holey bar on the gear selector arm? OR the rose joint on the horizontal holey bar from the rocker arm outward?
6) Sorry for being so thick and thanks for you patience.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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OX
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:38 PM |
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yip.it also reduces the chances of getting a false neutral
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Avoneer
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:41 PM |
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What does - being so thick 
Got an Ackerman gear display thing for that!
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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OX
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:45 PM |
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lol that wont stop anything ,it just reminds you what gear your in
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Rorty
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| posted on 7/10/05 at 11:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Right,
So I need to:
1) Holey flat bar coming from the spline of the gearbox.
2) Rodded rose joint from one of these holes vertically up to the horizontal holey bar of the rocker arm.
3) Vertical holey bar of the rocker arm (assuming we are going for an "L" shaped rocker arm) connected to the paddles via another rose
jointed rod.
4) Both rose joints on both arms of the rocker arm equal distance from the pivot point of the rocker arm - to start with.
5) Start by moving rose joint on the holey bar on the gear selector arm? OR the rose joint on the horizontal holey bar from the rocker arm outward?
6) Sorry for being so thick and thanks for you patience.
Pat...
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
I would try what that feels like with all connections equal (50mm -60mm from the pivots) and if the paddle is too stiff, raise the BJ on the vertical
arm of the lever.
If the paddle feels too wishy-washy or moves too far, then move the vertical rod outwards along the horizontal arm of the upper lever and try it again
for feel.
You'll obviously need to fit the steering wheel, column and paddle to do all this. Make sure you are seated in the correct position too to try
and replicate, as closely as possible, your actual driving position.
I just tidied this up a bit.
[Edited on 8/10/05 by Rorty]
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Avoneer
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| posted on 8/10/05 at 12:07 AM |
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Thanks.
Will see what happens over the weekend and report back.
Pat
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Mad Dave
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| posted on 8/10/05 at 06:33 AM |
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quote:
Mad Dave, what prevents your shift lever extension from rotating when you pull on the cable?
I found the lever arm at a breakers as it is. I assumed the bike it came from had knackered splines on the gear shaft so an m5 bolt was used to stop
it rotating on the shaft. The extension arm is welded on and I only retained the bolt because I could.
Dave
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