cashy
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 06:38 PM |
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The battery is a new sealed unit which cost £80, was fully charged when i got it and was checke dlast week.
Are you saying your rectifier is mounted where mine is or is it in the nocecone.....
will check all earth leads tomorrow.
adrian
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cashy
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 06:39 PM |
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Thats what i though but the cars just started with the fuse out?
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Brooky
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 06:56 PM |
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That fuse is in between the stator (alternator) and the battery if blown you will not get a charge, the battery more likely had 14.5v when you
measured it and 12v later.
That is what happened to me (See the first post on page 2).
[Edited on 16/6/04 by Brooky]
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cashy
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 posted on 16/6/04 at 06:57 PM |
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So this could be it then..........................................................................................
Fingers crossed
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Brooky
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 07:12 PM |
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Another thought, once the fuse is replace check that its charging by warming up the engine and measuring the voltage at idle then blip it to over 8k
and see if the voltage rises with the revs - it should do.
u have u2u cashy.
[Edited on 16/6/04 by Brooky]
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Alez
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| posted on 17/6/04 at 08:47 AM |
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Is there a possibility that it may be the alternator? There's not much in between the "12 V bus" that is not working and the source
of energy: The alternator windings, then the so called "regulator" (buch of chunky power diodes as far as I know) and then the battery. If
the battery is new and the last blown rectifier was new, couldn't it be the alternator? For instance, if one phase of the alternator is open,
the peak current in the other diodes would increase and may be too much resulting in regulator damage? The regulator parameters are quite marginal
nominally and maybe cannot cope with that?
If I was building I would consider bolting 3 big discrete bolt-on diodes to a metal plate in the Locost instead of the expensive uprated regulator,
although I'm not sure that the regulator is just 3 diodes in a big heat sink. The reason why an uprated reg is expensive is because heatsinks
are expensive, if you already have the capability for heat sinking (because you have big surface anyway) maybe you don't really need to pay for
extra sinking.
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cashy
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| posted on 18/6/04 at 12:39 PM |
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OK just been into the garage and done some checks:
Engine not running: Battery at 11.5 volts (not charged since breakdown)
STARTED ENGINE:
Started with the 30 amp fuse blown in the starter solenoid????
Battery charging at 12.5 to 14v tested at battery terminal
Checked black wire going to starter solenoid: 12.5 v
Checked rectifier when engine running:
Green wire 0 volts
Red wire 1.38 v
Yellow 1 0.27v
yellow 2 0.24v
yellow 3 0.24v
Rectifier got very hot with only 5 mins running, is this normal?
Adrian
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Brooky
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| posted on 18/6/04 at 01:48 PM |
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quote:
Rectifier got very hot with only 5 mins running, is this normal?
Dunno, I have not touched mine since i fitted it !
Did you put any charge into the battery to start it ?
Did you replace the fuse ?
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cashy
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| posted on 18/6/04 at 04:56 PM |
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Ok here is some more:
I HAVE REPLACED THE BLOWN FUSE
Followed some instructions from the Haynes manual on testing the system.
Checked the charging system for the leakage rate: ALL OK
Regulator/Rectifier Check: ALL OK
Rectifier now reading:
Yellow 1 6.98volt
Yellow 2 and 3 same at 0.1
Battery is charging at 14v as it only had 11v in it before i started the engine.
Am halfway through wiring a Voltmetre guage which im fitting in the dash to keep an eye on things.
Do you think ive cured the problem?
ps. also fitting a pc fan onto the rectifier
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cashy
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| posted on 24/6/04 at 01:40 PM |
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All back together now just need some nice weather to go testing....................
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Brooky
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| posted on 28/6/04 at 12:51 PM |
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Are we up and running yet cashy ?
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cashy
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| posted on 28/6/04 at 05:22 PM |
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Waiting for some dry weather and time off work..........
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Lightning
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| posted on 29/6/04 at 09:04 PM |
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Sorry to butt in, but I have a similar problem.
Previous rectifier overcharged the battery to bloody hot. Put in new rectifier, charge seems to be about 14 ish volts, but battery reads 13+ volts
disconnected. Just drove around the block and battery wont turn the engine to restart.
Tried multimeter in my co. car and read 12v so presumed OK.
Question ....Is the battery f****d
It is almost new and the sides are not bulging?
Steve
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cashy
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| posted on 30/6/04 at 05:51 PM |
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Just got back from a quick 30 miles test.
Voltmeter guage is showing just over 12v on tickover and rises to 13.5 to 14volt driving along.
So far no problems but the last few times it occured after 100 miles so fingers crossed.
May even drive to PISTONFEST on Sunday.
Adrian
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cashy
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| posted on 4/7/04 at 09:09 PM |
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On 75 miles test now, no probs yet.......
yeeehaaaa
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