Cheers
mark
Hi all, As above...
I have an inline pressure switch which is fitted into the line to the rear brakes.
When I push the brake pedal, nothing happens.
If I join the two wires together the lights come on.
Any ideas / do the switches come at different pressure settings ?
Any advice is more than welcome..
Yes, I've blead the system and the switch is mounted horizontal.
[Edited on 16/4/08 by peterparsons]
Do you have pressure in the rear line, i.e do your rear brakes work?
If yes then I would suspect it's the switch.
Cheers
Ian
Daft question, but you have bled your brakes haven't you?
Cheers
mark
Another possible problem is if you've mounted the switch with the wires vertical and there is a bubble trapped between the switch and the
fluid.
[Edited on 16/4/08 by iank]
If youve got a bias valve in the line to the rear then the rear brakes will only operate when the bias valve tells them to
This is why the brake light switch is normally put in the line(s) to the front brakes so that the pressure increase when you press the brake pedal
makes the contact to operate the brake lights.
The rear brakes dont always work or do alot when they are working
My brakes work good. Pressure switch is in rear line. Brake lights dont operate until i really push the pedal hard (ie hardly ever on the road). My
research so far suggests rear line doesnt see sufficient pressure to make such switches work.
Option 1 - try as Jos says. However it may be possible that such light cars need light operation of stop pedal so whilst this should work it may not
be 100%.
Option 2 - my investigations have shown that S2 non servo'd land rovers had the exact same issue yonks ago and a lower pressure switch was made
available for them. Im awaiting one at the mo. Will report back when its fitted and tested. I think my mate is getting it from Britpart (he is a
britpart dealer).
Strange that some people never have a problem yet others do. There must be a wide tolerance band in the switches or there are 2 types that are sold as
the same part. I cant remember what the type number was on mine.
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
Daft question, but you have bled your brakes haven't you?
I've had a hydraulic switch fail on me in the past. Simplest solution was to leave it in situ to save bleeding the brakes and replace it with a
microswitch from maplins mounted on a bracket near the brake pedal.
If you have a multimeter then check for continuity across the contacts of the switch when the pedal is pressed.
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
Daft question, but you have bled your brakes haven't you?
why should that make a difference - air transmits pressure too.
clearly either the switch is faulty or there is not enough pressure for it too operate.
quote:
Originally posted by iank
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
Daft question, but you have bled your brakes haven't you?
why should that make a difference - air transmits pressure too.
clearly either the switch is faulty or there is not enough pressure for it too operate.
So you don't bother to bleed your brakes, or indeed put any fluid in to start with?
the pressure switch used on aircooled vw's works at very low pressures and requires the lightest of touches to switch it on.
There are two types of readily available switches 5psi and the other is much higher.
If enough air is trapped in the switch the switch wil not bne made and lights will not work. Air compresses readily, hydraulic fluid does not (by
design).
Turn the switch on it's side - Un-nip the nut housing the switch - depress the brake pedal until fluid is expelled under pressure. Nip up the
nut. This should fix it if the switch is ok.
Steve
YES - i have blead the system
YES - the switch is mounted Horizontal
Sounds like I either need to move the switch to the front pipes or find a lighter setting switch - any ideas from what car ?
quote:
Originally posted by peterparsons
YES - i have blead the system
YES - the switch is mounted Horizontal
Sounds like I either need to move the switch to the front pipes or find a lighter setting switch - any ideas from what car ?
quote:
Originally posted by Paul TigerB6
I've had a hydraulic switch fail on me in the past. Simplest solution was to leave it in situ to save bleeding the brakes and replace it with a microswitch from maplins mounted on a bracket near the brake pedal.
If you have a multimeter then check for continuity across the contacts of the switch when the pedal is pressed.
Have to say the idea of a microswitch is far more tempting. Isnt it a shame the maser cylinders didnt have the piston end sticking out so switch could be added there. I can access pedal area but i need triple jointed elbows and invisible hands o reach and see what im doing. Fitting brackets is more tricky unless there are easier switches to use.
I thought brake line pressure switches should ALWAYS be mounted inline on the the front system as the front is what doing the most braking and hence
the greater amount of pressure.
Ta
[Edited on 16/4/08 by darrens]
Best bet is an electric switch activated by pedal movement, so the slightest touch brings on the lights to let the lorry driver know you may be about to stop, also handy when racing as a touch of the brake pedal and a wave of the arm may get the competitor behind to pass and go too deep into the corner while you are still on the loud pedal, one of our locals was well known for this, caught the new guys every time.