Does anyone have some photos or tips on how to make this better?
Im running it until i can sort paddles out.
I believe its the standard MK on.

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Gear Linkage2
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Ouch, no wonder you need so much pull to make a change! Principles of moments, you're pulling on a short lever to operate the long lever which actuates the gear change linkage. Ideally you should be using levers of about the same length as each other, that way you'll need less pull.

Why not use a longer cable, take it close to the gear change shaft and fix it to a bracket that will give you a straight pull to the gear change linkage on the gear change shaft?

[Edited on 11/8/08 by sucksqueezebangblow]

I also noticed that there appear to be two holes in the upper lever and the inner hole is currently in use. Moving the bolt and linkage to the outer hole should help a little by giving a little more leverage.

[Edited on 11/8/08 by sucksqueezebangblow]

Ive got a cable from Andy at AB on his advice. I have to say it really is better than I thought it would be. Infact it's the dogs nuts!

Jason

Id try that... but then i cant use my flat shifter!

Ok... so iv cut the gear lever down on the rose joint end and moved it up about 2 inches (cant go lower unless its at the bottom cos it hits the prop)

Also moved it to the outer one on the pivot, but this now makes it like jelly.....

the pivot either twists at the welds OR the tube is twisting. So ive moved it back in one, this is better but still twists, and then rod seems to bend (Even tho it is flatter/straighter than before!)

It is however, much easier to change gear, so need to test it out moving along with the flat shift.

I think its just going to feel like its really flexi tho...

Think its going to take a lot more work, would a double triangle plate mounted on rose joints work with a spacer above and below to straighten out both rods?

How about something like this. The only drawback is it will reverse your gear change lever direction.

[img][/img]

At the moment it seems to work ok, but just flexes. Would a thicker rod stop this?

Having said that i think the pivot tube is twisting now if you keep pressure on the lever.... Hmmm Think it needs a serious re think, maybe i'll just order the Dax paddles!

Can anyone other some advice on this abortion? It's goy so much play it is like stirring custard!! The gear shift is in the wrong sense (Back 1 and then forward 6) but i would like to keep it that way as I have a german coupe with a sequencial box for commuting (Smart 4 2!!!) Thanks
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Wow, that is nasty! But it's not as bad as charlierevells! At least the levers are roughly equal length. The lever below the floorpan level looks like an accident waiting to happen.

I'd say go for cable actuation.

I've got mine better... if i changed it to the further pivot and then make it nearer on the bottom it would change gear on its own and require noooo effort at all!

Couldnt agree more with the above,

Get rid of it all and start again,

keep it simple and as short as possible, big lengths of rod like that make the opperation very sloopy and difficult to change gear let alone hitting something on the road with it that low,

Ask mk to make you a new pivot shouldnt cost much,

Godd luck with what ever you do,

go paddle shift i would say but thats only my opinion,

Well.... my rod ends arrived today, 6mm and 3mm ali plate is in the post as is 2.5m of rod to link it all together.
Already got the flatshifter, so paddle shift here i come!

Ok, dumbass question number 1. What is a flat shifter? As I have to start again I would really like to go paddleshift. Where do I start?

Im building my paddles to fit under and in front of my sierra stuff...
Ill take photos as i go and post them up!

Flatshifter kills the spark on the upchange and the nice one blips on the way back down too!

quote:

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Originally posted by asl
Ok, dumbass question number 1. What is a flat shifter? As I have to start again I would really like to go paddleshift. Where do I start?

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yeah I do aggree the shifting set up was horrendous! but then it was a makeshift of what I had and what mk did to get it working. I was going to get a cable conversion from AB, but never got around to it.

Wow! £890 +VAT! for the pro version.

I've got a cheapo (£150) quickshifter on my (ex)race bike, that'll be transfered onto my car.

It has variable kill time too, which can lead to some very loud upchanges.

The actuator can be used both ways so I'll use the cheapo killbox on upshifts and configure something electromachanical for the downshifts. It'll certainly cost less than £1050!

[Edited on 3/10/08 by sickbag]

[Edited on 3/10/08 by sickbag]