Having read numerous threads ref getting a reading for oil pressure I am looking at getting a sandwich plate for the oil filter and getting the reading from their.

I want to check I am doing the right thing before commiting the cash.

Would this link
do the job along with any electrical oil pressure guage and sender ? would I need anything else ?

Also is m20 x 1.5 the correct thread for for the sandwich plate on an 03 R1 ?

In case it makes a difference I am not running an oil cooler

cheers

I took mine off the main gallery end plug (one each end) as thats where Yamaha test it. Very easy to do as well, though I can't remember the thread size.

adrian

[Edited on 10/4/08 by adithorp]

As said, it will be easier and probably cheaper to tap the oil gallery plug or the centre bolt on the oil cooler.
I am going to get a new gallery plug made as the existing aluminium one looks a bit thin where the allen key goes in.
I would have used the oil cooler bolt, but because of my rear engine and exhaust, it will be easier from the side of it.
I have asked before, but does anyone know what the actual pressure is at idle?
I have been told it is around 10 psi. I know the manual says to test at 5000 rpm and it should be 32.5 psi.
I am going to fit a pressure switch too.

markyb

Which engine is it?

I've fitted oil pressure sensors to a 4XV (drilled oil cooler bolt) and to my current 5VY (adaptor into the oil gallery). A sandwich plate just complicates things, and adds weight!

Wyn

I have mine on the oil cooler bolt. I am using Reacetech pressure sender and gauge. Bolt needs to be tapped for 10x1 thread.

I have been told that the pressure senders can fail when mounted direct to the engine through vibrations so I plan to get a steel braded flexi and mount it remote on the chassis somewhere. I don't know if anyone else has experienced this.

Here's a pic of it now.
Rescued attachment Oil pressure sender.JPG

I don't have an R1, I have a Suzuki, but they're the same in one respect - there's a gallery plug that you can drill and tap. This is what you want to do.
You then need a Racetech gauge and sender unit, and teeth to grit as you look at the (very accurate) readings through the corners...

thanks for the info everyone - I have never done a tap before and didnt want cutting into my engine to be my first time !!!

That was why I was looking at the sandwich plate option (plus the ease of installation)

Having looked at the pic that Stuart_g has put up I am wondering would a sandwich plate foul the pipe to the left of the oil filter.

Has anyone any pics of a sandwich plate in place ? Surely I am not the only one too afraid to drill to fit a sensor ?

Just remove the bolt from the oil cooler and get a local engineer to drill/tap it.
It is easy to get a new bolt if things go wrong.

I have same as stuart-g
still OK after a year & 500 miles...
Bob

Nitram38 - I like the sound of someone else doing it !!! and would still be cheaper than a sandwich plate

will go away and look at that option

a bit o/t but anyone have any recommendations for buying R1 parts online - I did try the local bike place a few days ago but 'the computer has been down all day' so their world stopped spinning

I need to do mine soon, but I plan on replacing the main oil gallery cap with a tapped brass adapter. I stuck a caliper on the original and it is 15.91mm so is probably a 16mm thread?
I am going to do a search on ebay etc before I have one made.
I'll let you know what I find.
If not I will get one or two made if you are interested?
Obviously I will go with the cheapest option.
I do have a brass adapter which seems to be the same tread pitch but only screws in about 3 threads. I don't want to wind it too tight as aluminium castings tend to crack and I can do with out a weld repair!
I am not sure if the thread on adapters are tapered?
I was wondering if a bit of pumbers tape would do it?

Rally d and Europa do them or Durite part No 0-523-98 is a set of 3. 1/8npt M14 M16 M18 all x1.5

adrian

Originally, I was going to fit an oil pressure switch, but reading on here and other sites, the pressure drops to about 6 psi at idle (32.5 psi @ 5000rpm).
Having a warning switch so low is probably why the R1 does not bother having one.
The R1 oil light works off the oil level switch.
Since that is the case, I will have to do the same and rely on my capilary gauge.

For this:

See this!

Oil temperature sender in sump and oil pressure sender, on end of braided hose tapped into blank in end of gallery. Here.


And what I did on the 4XV here.


Wyn