In a word "amazing"

In a few more words, upshifts ? Fractions of a nanosecond and seamless.

Downshifts, weird very very smooth when braking hard.

Recommend one ?

In a word, YES.

in a few more words - what the hell are you on about????

where's a linky?

BEC porn.........
Rescued attachment 28_1_b.jpg

Ive got one of those to fit on my car,just too busy driving it to get round to fitting it,One question Jon can they cope with rapid down shifts,like coming into a hair pin,you need to shift from 6th to 1st,will it keep up,or do you have to wait for the auto blip each time,Ive been looking for a video of someone with one fitted to a bec,to give me some idea,but Ive not found anything yet.

Yes. I think it needs something like 1/4 second between down shifts.

Tip, mount the box as close as possible to the "blipper" & "vac take off" The shorter these pipes the better and sharper the blip.

Its awesome, honest.

sounds mega and spot on for a track day. can imagine the hairpin at donny GP circuit!

where from and how much? linky?

Bought mine from this guy on Ebay,item number 150212973292,£499,you just tell him what bike its for,and which way round your gearbox is,ie 1st pull back,or push forward to select.

I've got one of these too, the downshifts are a bit disconcerting at first as you're braking and when you go for the lever it blips the throttle but you're still in gear for the first bit of the blip so it kinda pushes you forwards a bit.

Up shifts are great.

Don't worry to much about which way around your gearbox is it takes about 20 seconds to change it on the connector - all the red linkage does it sense when you are changing up or down so in effect its a big glorified switch. So you just swap the two outer wires around.

I just need to fit my shift actuator and find a decent way of adding some nice paddles (that are just switches) that fit with my Sierra stalks etc.

quote:

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Originally posted by hobbsy
I've got one of these too, the downshifts are a bit disconcerting at first as you're braking and when you go for the lever it blips the throttle but you're still in gear for the first bit of the blip so it kinda pushes you forwards a bit.

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Yeah I had thought this in the past - I seem to remember the manual saying it was more important to ensure the upshift was smooth.

Its one of those things thats a bit fiddly and an iterative process that takes a while.

I've not got mine out this year so far (so to speak) so when I do tweaking the sensitivity is on the cards.

To be honest I put it on the car just before my last track day of last year and I found the downshift blip too extreme on the road and ultimately I disabled it for that track day as until I got used to it (or had time to adjust it) I didn't want to be distracted by it on track.

adjusting your quickshifter for best results. firstly mine is fitted to a quaife sequential box behind a toyota engine ,but the eletronics and workings are identical,
how i was advised to adjust mine, simple and easy with brilliant results
strain gauage, wants to be set a figure slightly higher than whats needed to pull shifter into neutral, with stock quaife shifter ours is set at 8kg, check with simple pull type scale from sports store, 8kg might sound alot but i easily shift with two fingers of left hand, the idea is to have some load on the shifter when the cut takes place so as to jump into gear, sort of like pre loading a spring,
cut time even simpler, adjust on track [for obvious reasons] relax your body in the car and do a flat upshift, dose your head move, no, your spot on the money, yes which way, if it bobed foward decrease cut time,ie speed up, if it moved back slow down cut time, when you get it right its so quick and smooth you sometimes dont think its changed, absolutly brilliant wouldnt swap it for quids
cant help with the blip tronic down shift as i dont use it , i just clutchles down shift and dont touch the throttle, dosnt seem to worry it at all
hope thats of some help
Cheers Kaspa

Hi everyone thank you jon for the nice comments on our flatshifter system first hear is a utube link on board footage of graham miller in his global GT1 running a std R1 engine

http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=2740771063408382978&q=graham+miller&total=114&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&pl index=0


http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=1097468818531690670
It is very unusual for your flatshifter to req any adjustments to be made they are set up for your application using very accurate equipment ,on the rare occasion that it is neccesary please use very small adjustments it is very quick and easy to do these adjustments ,if anyone has lost there instruction manual please email us and we will happily send you a new copy
graham (flatshifter) 01206 322557 www.flatshifter.com

Great video,just what Ive been looking for,I will have to pull my finger out now and get mine fitted.

Brilliant Video of Graham and it illustrates clearly the points i made about a couple of things, notice his helmet dosnt move either fowared or backward , and during upshifts the attitude of the car remains stable , even when he upshifts just past the apex on turn 4 i think it is, the car dosnt feel the change up at all.
the other bonus with using this system and hasnt been mentioned as yet, is it reduces shock loads on your drive line to an absolute minimum there for extending maintanance periods significantly.
a word of warning though , and you'll notice it caught Graham out a couple of times , and ive done it myself, DONT hold on to the shifter, cause if the car hits a bump you can easily push into a down shift when you dont mean to, embarrasing.
In my veiw the best dollar you can ever spend on a BEC.

Graham,I dont no about kind words, mate you guys should be Knighted, i use a sytem from an Australian Co. that dose them for the V8 Super cars over there, but the electronics are very similar to yours, the only major difference is, i can now run it all through the Haltech E11, V2 ECU, best toy ive ever had
cheers Kaspa

[Edited on 12/2/08 by Kaspa]

Sow basicly the upshift is a cut in revs to loosen the gears and then there is a upshift and then there is a union again in the revs.

Downshift is while braking blipping the throttle and with the play of the gears select a lower gear.

I have build my own pneumatic system in conjuction with my own rev cutter (injection) the cutout time is adjustable.

1) Cut out = ON
2) 5 miliseconds delay
3) Solenoid UP = ON
4) 250 miliseconds delay
5) Solenoid UP = OFF
6) 5 miliseconds delay
7) Cut out = OFF

I have a system wich can blip the throttle but anyone has any idea how to do this?? How would the basic flow chart look like??

How much throttle is a blip?
How long is the blip giveing?
At wich state the change geardown is given?

If i change over full throttle from 1st to second i notice clutch slip its like an auto box (it reengages after 2sec).

anyone any tips/advices?

Regards,

Tks

TKS, mate i'm no techo wizard but i would certainly question your cut time. as my set up is fully progamable through the ECU, the tunner initialy set the cut time at 40ms and it was way to fast, we have since upped it to 85ms and am almost there. somewhere between 75 and 95 ms depending on trans would be a ball park figure to start with. the other thing is theres a we bit more to it than just a fuel cut. you have to ramp the system back on gradualy ,ie fuel and ign, otherwise it will be to severe, and thats where the Flatshifter, and the system i use, have spent a lot of time and money to get right.
from what you describe i think the only thing youll achieve is a very broken trans in a very short time.
Just my opion of course
best of luck
Kaspa

quote:

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Originally posted by Kaspa
TKS, mate i'm no techo wizard but i would certainly question your cut time. as my set up is fully progamable through the ECU, the tunner initialy set the cut time at 40ms and it was way to fast, we have since upped it to 85ms and am almost there. somewhere between 75 and 95 ms depending on trans would be a ball park figure to start with. the other thing is theres a we bit more to it than just a fuel cut. you have to ramp the system back on gradualy ,ie fuel and ign, otherwise it will be to severe, and thats where the Flatshifter, and the system i use, have spent a lot of time and money to get right.
from what you describe i think the only thing youll achieve is a very broken trans in a very short time.
Just my opion of course
best of luck
Kaspa

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Tks, i can see what your trying to achieve , and like i said i'm no computer guru, but for your system to work youll have to set it up some how like this
1/ air on, with just enough pressure in line to put weight on lever but not shift it, ie spring load the lever slightly.
2/ initiate cut, as soon as trans sees no torque , shift will take place instantly.
3/ the tricky bit, getting the fuel and ignition back on
I wish you luck. it can be done of course , but i dont think it will be easy to get right.
cheers Kaspa

basicly this means that my cilinder and pressure etc. just need to be for arround 8kg..

right?

Thanxs for the flow chart!