Hi

Having noticed a funny smell recently I took a look around my rectifier/regulator circuitry (Honda Fireblade). Was a bit disturbed to notice that the block-connector for the alternator, and the block connector onto the rectifier itself were quiet majorly black/melted.

Suspected the common rectifier issue, but my Haynes manual and tester suggested that the rectifier itself was okay - I've also had nothing to suggest that it's not charging correctly.

However, the connectors were so badly corroded or had welded themselves together that by the time I'd managed to extract the connector from the regulator it had taken the terminals with it! So even though the rectifier seemed fine it looks like I need a new one anyway

So, a couple of questions: -

1) What would have caused my terminals to turn to coal? Is it simply a case of bad/dirty connection causing high resistance, and therefore heat, or could it be the rectifier getting hot and the heat transmitting down the wire to the alternator plug? I'd expect though in the latter case that the wire shielding would also be knackered which doesn't appear to be the case.

2) I need to replace the connector that splices the 3 alternator yellow wires into the loom and onto the rectifier. Do I need to use a specific type of connector, or can I used spade connectors (not sure of the current required and the rating of spades, but a block connector is essentially just spades in a housing is it not?)

3) What can I do in terms of replacement? My blade is an early blade, and the rectifier looked like this...



...which suggests it's from a later RRW/RRX model from what I've seen on ebay - I'm guessing from this that they are compatible with earlier blades. I can get one like this for about 35 quid from e-Bay. Will this be suitable or can I get something better without paying loads more? I've heard about superdream regulators for example, are they a direct replacement (wiring and bolt-spacing, though the latter is hardly insurmountable, would just be nice...).

4) Depending on the answer to Q.3 I need to either get a replacement block connector to match the fireblade rectifier, or whatever rectifier I use. Where would I find such a thing for whatever is the best option for 3?

5) Whilst on the subject of rectifiers, mine is mounted on the passenger footwell, on 3 sheets of ally (poss 3mm?) spaced with washers. Is this a good or a bad heatsink design? ( don't worry, I didn't build it so you can be honest )

Thanks, Simon

this is a common problem with the rectifier and afaik they tend to replace with a rectifier from the honda superdream. 250/400

Sounds like typical damage that you find from a bad/corroded connector .

Personally I'd prefer the correct connector block as it'd be sealed or should be.

adrian

Don’t underestimate the heat caused by a bad connection. I have seen headlamp ones totally melt due to it and considering the current from an alternator it would not take much. I tend to clean corroded ones by leaving the connector in a bowl of vinegar overnight. A light wipe of copper grease then prevents it happening again.


[Edited on 6/2/08 by Mr Whippy]

I've used the podtronic reg recs on a number of occasions to replace failed bike units, usually about £35 for a new one. Never had any frying or burnout problems with those, and they have integral leads so you can put whatever connectors on you like.

http://www.catmando-services.co.uk/parts.html#rectifers

Part No. W10123
Rgds.
Pete.

We have had same issue with the standard early reg/rec. Now we fit units from the later 954 or CBR1000rr which are much beefier. You will need to splice together the 2 red wires out (batt +)
and the 2 green wires (earth and if your unit has a black wire take it to an ignition fed live after that the 3 yellows go to the genny and you should be in business. If you really want to guild the lily we fit a small pc cooling fan on the top of the fins to draw air through all the time the ignition is on. I havent had this set up blow in 2 years and have been running 16+ RGB cars for that time
Hope that helps
regards
Andy
AB Performance

Or you can just get one from a later Blade LIKE THIS ONE ON EBAY and you will end up (maybe) cutting the other connector off anyway as the wiring for it is "doubled up", then just crimp/solder and insulate as normal.

ATB
Steve

Thanks all.

Liking the look of the later 'blade rectifiers since they look like they already have wires direct from the unit rather than a block connector. So one of these, and solder the requisite wires together and heat-shrink insulation rather than spade connectors should give me my best solution i guess. After all provided the new unit doesn't fail there'd be no reason to dismandle the harness!

Any thoughts on whether that "heatsink" configuration I have is any cop or pointless?

sounds a much better solution

The "heatsink" you have is fine.
the one I linked for you has fins as you can see.

If you want any more cooling, mount a PC fan on top of it!

Steve

quote:

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Originally posted by worX

If you want any more cooling, mount a PC fan on top of it!

Steve

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i put it here, no probs since.......
Rescued attachment reg.JPG