I've just fitted my "new" R1 engine. Its lovely. It starts much more easily than the old lump, though it sounds a bit more sort of
rattly or exhausty. It pulls better at low speed and rev up quite nicely. However, it stumbles a bit between 6000 and 7500 at full throttle. Above
this, below this and at lesser throttle inputs its just fine. The problem isn't too bad and I guess it just needs tweaking. The question is
which way?
I have a TTS jetting kit fitted and have the smallest of the 3 main jet sizes fitted (140 I think) with the needles set at their richest setting.
This suited the old engine fine. How do I tell if I'm runing a bit rich or a bit lean at full load? (without going to a dyno)
I think that it is dyno or a decent lambda sensor and gauge.
A rolling road will have to wait. After spending £600 on a new engine SWIMBO will object. She begruded me spending money on the new lump quite a
lot.
So I've tried all 3 main jet sizes supplied by TTS. the 144s and 150s are slightly better than the 140s and will run at upto 80% throttle from
6000 - 9000 RPM and at 100% everywhere else. Given that it's fine from 0 - 75% throttle, I assume that the idle mixture and needle settings are
not the problem. So what can cause the stammering at 100% throttle at 6000 - 9000 RPM?
[Edited on 25-11-2006 by smart51]
Let her know that I bought an 05 injected engine (700 miles) for £1850.
Tell her that you economised at £600 and a £200 dyno session is still less than mine! 
I have also added a power commander and barnett clutch plus a veypor |V2 dash for another £500.
And when it is built I will still have to add in the dyno or a lambda set up.................
[Edited on 25/11/2006 by nitram38]
Hmmmm.... If it's the same TTS kit as mine I use the 144 mains and have the needles on the third notch and it carburates beautifully! It's
worth a try as it's free! 
144 or 150 jets worked well with my old R1 motor. The 150s with a straight through can the 144s with a baffled R1 can. Still had a bit of a flat
spot at 4-5k but not bad at all.
As Coose says try this first as its free.
- Jim
Tried 144s with the needles 2 grooves from the richest setting. Even worse than before. Then rememberd to put goo in the pilot air jets. I took
this off on my old engine as it crucified it. Quite a bit better. It now grumbles between 9000 and 10000 at more than 80% throttle. A bit more
tinkering should sort it.
I also haven't blocked up one of the two holes on the each of the slides. Does anyone know what this does. It would appear to slow the rate at
which the slide travels but not alter how fat it travels. why would I want to do this?
That is why I have gone the injection/power commander route. One map for emmissions, one for road and another for track (hopefully).
Another day another test. 144 mains, 2nd groove from richest just like the instructions say. Fine from 5000 upwards at all throttle inputs.
Introduced another problem from 3500 - 4500 at full throttle. It growls loudly but hardly pulls. Once past 4500, its up and away.
Don't buy a carbed engine, buy FI. At least the setting at one revs doesn't affect the others.
Block the air bleed holes (use cocktail sticks if you don't want to make it permanent) and also one hole on each slide. Needles want to be on
either the 2nd or 3rd groove from the top and try 144 mains. If this doesn't work your exhaust is pants!
[Edited on 27/11/06 by Coose]
Two or three clips from the top? Is that the lean end or the rich end. I'm never sure which end is the top. I've tried the 2nd and 3rd
from the rich end so far.
I've blocked off the main air jet holes with silicone for now. I'll make it more permenant when I've got it all 100%
The top is the end opposite to the pointy end. The top groove is the leanest, the bottom the richest. If you "raise" the needles you make it
richer.
Results with 144 mains and all apropriate holes blocked.
bottom clip (richest) judders from 3500 - 4500 at 100% throttle. OK at 80%. Also very slight judder from 9000- 10000 and 11000 - 12000 at 100%
throttle
2nd bottom clip. judders from 3500 - 4500 at 100% throttle. OK at 80%.
3rd bottom clip. judders from 9000 - 10000 at 100%. OK at 80%
4th from bottom (3rd from top). Undrivable. no pull at all above 20% throttle or 3000 RPM.
So 2nd richest clip is best with 144 mains. Not good enough though. Do I try a richer or leaner main next? Or something else?
how is the sparking system??
check your sparking system!!
its easy to trowaway a engine when not haveing it right.
Earth all the coils!!, Check feed lines for breaks etc. etc..
Tks
Have you tried the 150s and clip 3?
Cheers
Jim
Tried 150s with 2nd and 3rd richest clips. Results are the same as 144s with the richest clip.
I measured the fuel level in one of the carbs (only had time for 1) it is much too high. This won't help a bit so that's the next job.
When you say 'judder', do you mean it misfires?
Are your carbs balanced? If one is miles out that won't help.....
Are all of the balancing bungs fitted, and have you blanked off the vacuum tap/AIS inlet just below the carbs on the far left (sprocket side)?
[Edited on 30/11/06 by Coose]
[Edited on 30/11/06 by Coose]
By judder I mean it pulls then it doesn't then it does then it doesn't severl times per second. Is that a misfire?
The carbs are balanced.
There are screws fitted and sealed in the balanceing holes.
Is AIS fitted to 2000 - 2001 engines? Mine's a 98 / 99. Is there a vacuum take off? I haven't noticed one.
[Edited on 30-11-2006 by smart51]
Yes, the AIS is '00-'01 motors so yours won't have it. But, underneath the sprocket-end carb in the same place as the other balancing plugs is a nipple where the vacuum tap would connect - have you blanked that also? A piece of rubber hose with a bolt pushed in (and wired in place) works for me!
I'm just wondering, did it carburate ok before you took out the original motor to be destroyed, sorry I mean to have the gearbox
'fixed'? I remember that you had issues with it, but did you resolve them?
If so, nothing should have changed between then and now. Is it something else like a blocked fuel tank or float bowl breather? It may sound like
I'm clutching at straws, but without seeing what's happening it's difficult to suggest.....
I'll check the vacuum thing tomorrow.
The old engine did carburate ok but with 140 mains and the richest needle clip. I think it had a compression problem for as long as I had it. The
new engine pulls a whole lot better above 9000, especially at motorway speeds. I'm thinking that the carb jetting was set to match the old
lump.
Anyway, I've managed to set the fuel height a bit lower. It is barely better on 150s + 3rd richest clip, but I feel that the 150s are too rich.
I'll try the best settings of the 144s tomorrow to see how it is on that.
Col
With all this time your spending on the fuelling - why not cut some lawns, wash some cars and earn some extra cash to get it on a dyno?
TTS transformed my MK.
TC
because his dearest will remove something quite precious to him
Surely not if he earns the extra cash...?
That would be a whole other can of worms. Just don't go there.
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
Surely not if he earns the extra cash...?
I knew there was a good reason why I won't marry Soozy! If this is what happens then I'll avoid it at all costs....
quote:
Originally posted by Coose
I knew there was a good reason why I won't marry Soozy! If this is what happens then I'll avoid it at all costs....
quote:
Originally posted by chockymonster
You're single aren't you Tim?
It doesn't work like that, I'm sure Mrs Smart51 is over the moon with her new engine for christmas
quote:
Originally posted by Coose
underneath the sprocket-end carb in the same place as the other balancing plugs is a nipple where the vacuum tap would connect - have you blanked that also?
I think I've got it. Setting the fuel levels allowed the engine to take the leaner needle grooves on 144 mains. It is now set to clip 2 (second
leanest) on 144 with the main air jet blocked and one hole on the slides blocked. Just as TTS suggest.
It pulled hardest from 9000 - 12000 on 150s with the pilot air jet open. This means more air and more fuel was getting to the engine. I spoke to TTS
about this a year ago asking why they block off the pilot air jet. they said that too much air was getting in to which I replied "why not put
more fuel in to match". I now guess that they couldn't jet the carbs over the full range to suit. That's where FI has it's
advantage.
It seems OK after 10 miles. I now need some dry weather to give it a good run. I believe it's going to rain for the next week.
That's excellent news!
The vacuum tap inlet is the stub used for balancing the nearest carb. You can see mine blanked with a piece of hose in the pic below, highlighted by
the red arrow. Obviously you have done this already!
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