who has one fitted in their car? and more importantly who has a finnished car with it? im interested on what other people did for their clutch actuator. also if you kept the secondary throttle assembly, ive heard of dsr racers wiring them open or ommiting them completely.

Hi,
I'm still in the process of finishing my car here in South Florida using a GSXR1000 engine.

I'm using Mazda 626 clutch master and slave cylinders to push on the clutch push rod. I made a 1/ 8" thick steel plate that mounts directly against the side of the transmission with the clutch push rod sticking through the plate. The clutch slave cylinder is mounted on a 90 degree bracket so that the open end of the cylinder is flush against the steel mounting plate and centered over the cut down clutch push rod.

I'm using a Wilford clutch pedal and I drilled a new clevis pin hole as close to the pivot hole as possible. I ended up with a 9 to 1 ratio and it feels pretty good.

The clutch slave unit is -very- close to the universal joint but it does clear it. The car isn't on the road yet so I really don't know how it will work but the pedal does feel like a normal car clutch.

Regards, Olrowdy

that sounds like a really interesting set up! I am a visual learner, and a couple of pics would be great. are you going drysump? looks like some people arew getting by with a baffle. very interested in your build. feel free to email me any pics of your car you may have. thanks!

I have a busa engine and just decided to use a gsxr 1000 clutch cable. I worried that there just wasn't enough space for the slave cylinder near the shaft

how did you make that work? did you take the gisxr 1k clutch actuator out of the sprocket cover and make a new bracket for it? i know it couldnt stay in the sprocket cover, it covers up the sprocket so no driveshaft. or did you just cut out for the driveshaft?

Yeah. that's what I did. took off the sprocket cover and fabed a lever to mount in the existing sprocket cover holes. Enough said, a picture is worth more that a 1000 words.

Here are pics I got from Jim Gould in Canada:
Rescued attachment DSCN0092.JPG

first pic was rather too larger. secod pic:
Rescued attachment DSCN0091.JPG

thanks for the pic! i am a visual learner. how far allong is your beast? im not that far away from you.

take a look at my archive theres a few pics on how I maintained a hydraulic clutch

clutch push rod will need to shorten no more than a 1/2 inch. Moreover, the pushrod length depends on how far the bracket/lever extents out from the engine. In the picture the bracket extents out enough to not interfere with the prop-shaft sprocket adapter. Fab the bracket- lever and test the range of motion before making a cut to the pushrod.

But for the gxr 1000, setup will be different since it is natively a cable- based clutch actuator

Coming along now after 3 yrs!!. wrapping up backend IRS (Subie LSD) to drop it down off the jack stands soon.

Its always no money, plenty of time -or- money to spend, but no time

Not bad Taz, looks good

yeah, thats a very clean install

Hi all!

I know this thread is a bit old but hoping for some help from out there in build land!!

I've made up a new clutch bracket and now need to make up a new push rod which I've calculated needs to be 1" longer than the original. This would be an easy job if (like and idiot) I'd not lost the original!!
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Does anyone know how long a standard push rod from a k8/k9 is?

Thanks

Ben