Afternoon...


I have been busy at the coolant pipe runs, to summarize

front mounted radiator with its own air bleed, the EWP pump is fitted in the bottom hose, leading to another bleed option at the high point on the n/s front wheelarch, then into a 32mm truflex run down the n/s sill. From memory i think I have to remove the Honda water pump blades, before the cooled water goes into the oem pump housing.

From the thermostat is a 30mm outlet and a 8mm bleed pipe outlet which originally went back to the radiator on the bike. I intend to pipe from the thermostat to the bottom of the header tank?

then from the top outlet of the header, plumb into the o/s truflex pipe run, for the return to the radiator, there's another bleed option ontop of the o/s wheelarch before going back into the rad.


1) Can I run the 8mm bleed pipe into the top of the header bottle ? or blank it off ?

2) Am I correct in plumbing the thermostat outlet to the bottom of the header tank ?


Any feedback is welcome, thanks











[Edited on 7/9/13 by T66]

Hi
This works great on our Indy R1 however hard you drive it.


Waterworks R1 Indy

Good luck
René

Thanks Rene - any other suggestions chaps.

This works perfectly on the ZX9R, kept water temp at 90degrees in traffic, 80degree on the move, with a 30degree ambient.

Description

That's the one. I can visualise that working within what I have done so far.

Thanks.

[Edited on 8/9/13 by T66]

Morning - rather than create another thread, with the header tank/pot I have used, the coolant leaves the thermostat housing and feeds into the tank from the base, up through the tank then down back along the sill to the radiator. see above pic...

The air bleed on the stat housing is now piped onto the bleed under the tank cap.


Question is - Should the thermostat outlet route to the top of the tank or does it not matter, its ended up this way as the pipe runs looked neater, and I couldnt personally see what difference it made.


And finally - the water pump silicone hoses and joiners are going to be close to the exhaust manifold (wrapped), would you recommend any additional wrap for them >?



cheers

quote:

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Originally posted by 40inches
This works perfectly on the ZX9R, kept water temp at 90degrees in traffic, 80degree on the move, with a 30degree ambient.

Description

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Deffo better having that rad bleed pipe connected into the system, as you can get big air locks in rads.

Yes bleed pipes from the top of the rad or from the top of the engine go into the top of header/expansion tanks.
Also you can T bleed hoses together.

quote:

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Originally posted by BigMac

quote:

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Originally posted by 40inches
This works perfectly on the ZX9R, kept water temp at 90degrees in traffic, 80degree on the move, with a 30degree ambient.

Description

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Hi Gents

Rather than create a new thread, I figured I'd piggy back off this one as it already has some great stuff in it.

If the OP of the above quote is still around... I'm just looking at the cooling setup on my 2007 ZX10-R, it's pretty much the same as yours. One question- have/did you blank off the radiator overflow (if you're using a Polo style rad), or did you tee it into the pipe that connects from the bleed on the 'stat housing to the reservoir?

I currently have it blanked off, but flicking through the Westfield build manual it shows the latter mentioned setup... That got me thinking whether mine's setup properly!

Cheers all for the advice,

Ben.

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Thanks gents for the replies- I figured as much.

With the engine having a bleed at the very top of the 'stat housing, it obviously has a way of releasing any air locks; the radiator has the same capability, but blanking that off means any air pockets above the top hose will remain there unless I bleed it, then replace the blanking cap. As such I'll T the two air bleeds together into the top of the reservoir.

Overall it'll look like so:


2006 D6F ZX10-R Cooling Route