Ok guys.

here is the list of issues with my bike engine.

Any advise would be good. cheers

Ok so i decided to rebuild my bike engine at the weekend to see what else needs doing before i put the Prop in.

I’ve started working on the pedal box install which looked alot easier than it is.

I’m using the clutch which came with the bike and the clutch lever and reservoir. Easier to install and should stop and over applying of clutch.

When i got the bike it was fully running and I stripped it down leaving the engine and mostly intact. I’ve removed the cover for the clutch to cut it down a little so you can fit the prop to the prop adaptor.

Refitted and filled the reservoir and bled it and it seemed ok. (this was 3 months ago) the lever still seems as hard to pull (firm)

- Now I’ve come to it and when I squeeze clutch lever it doesn’t engage the clutch.

I’ve re bled the clutch and refilled the reservoir with dot 4 brake fluid but this doesn’t sold the issue.

When changing gear it will only go into 1st and neutral. No others unless you spin the cog a little.

Clutch doesn’t engage at all.

So that’s my first.....

Second...

- Engine issue.

I haven’t fit the air box yet as im still making it. But the 3rd from the left carb is losing compression somewhere. When its running it sounds rough. (which i know it will cos of lack of airbox) if i put my palm over carb 1,2 and 4 i can feel the sucking feeling but on port 3 there is nothing. Does suck at all....(don’t laugh)

I don’t know where to start on that. Ive balanced them about 4 months ago but since then ive removed them and stored them over winter.....



Help please all....

my thoughts are

have you put a compression gauge on the no.3 cylinder?

are you sure the throttle valve is turning with the rest?

is the carb piston moving and free or is it sticking?

as for the clutch it doesn't seem you have sufficient m/s volume to move the slave cylinder enough to disengage the clutch

[Edited on 4/4/11 by Mr Whippy]

quote:

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Originally posted by Mr Whippy
my thoughts are

have you put a compression gauge on the no.3 cylinder?

............Not got a compression tester so ill need to get one........


are you sure the throttle valve is turning with the rest?

..........they all attach together at the back and move together if thats i understand what you mean....



is the carb piston moving and free or is it sticking?
.......... not sure how to check that............

as for the clutch it doesn't seem you have sufficient m/s volume to move the slave cylinder enough to disengage the clutch
.........(how do i sort that)..............

[Edited on 4/4/11 by Mr Whippy]

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have you tried to lift the carb piston with say a screw driver? usually its like a SU type and prone to corrosion and sticking if should be very free to move. I'd lift that up and shine a torch into the carb to check that all the throttle butter fly valves are moving and opening together. If you start the engine and again shine a torch into the carb intakes you can see the fuel mist being drawn past the mixture needle too so that checks that fuel is getting to each cylinder.

If all that checks out that rules out the carbs being the problem and it's time to check the compression of the cylinder itself.

As for the clutch problem I'm not sure how use you are to bike gearboxes. Unlike a car gearbox to move up a gear without the car moving would be difficult as they are not the same design, just like when riding a bike the bike needs to be rolling to shift gears apart from first otherwise you have to rock the bike or the car to line up the dog gears. This is the thing that would most annoy me with a BEC tbh

[Edited on 4/4/11 by Mr Whippy]

I'm with whippy on the clutch.
Sometimes you can change when stationary, sometimes it can be a bit tricky, especially if the oil is cold (or low in my case).
It might just be a bleeding thing, but don't expect the wet bike clutch with a sequential gearbox to behave how you might expect a car to work.



With cylinder 3 You normally get some suction even if you have a reduction in compression. So, it must be a carb problem. I hate old bike carbs and I suspect you too will soon.

My guess is that you have an air leak (after the butterfly), and you balanced them at idle which has completely closed the butterfly, and hence all the air is coming through the leak and you will get no vacuum infront of the butterfly.
There isn't a vacuum takeoff anywhere that you haven't blocked? on my gsxr1100 there is an vacuum connection (outlet or inlet, not sure given its a vacuum) for something that controls a valve on the fuel supply that I needed to block.


Matt

Often bikes do need a little movement to get in to gears other than first, so that's not too unusual.

I noticed my #3 slide on my R1 mnr was a bit sticky opening. Bit of WD40 on the slide sorted it out. Does sound like you've got bigger problems, however.

ok guys ill have a good luck at it.

i might end up pulling it out of the car and taking to a bike specialist if i cant get it working properly.

i just dont get how it was a running bike and now its almost not.

i took the exhaust off for inspection and started it up with it off and just fuel comes out of port 3. and flames about 3 inch long out of number 3 port.

i do hate bike engines.

Thanks again guys.

ill strips the carb down and clean it up and also check the earths and sparks.

should it run ok with exhaust off or do i need to put exhuast back on???????????????????????

surely there is someone local who could have a quick look. It won't be anything too complicated. Much easier if you leave it in.


Running with no exhaust with mine is too loud for my wife and neighbours but it runs okay like that.


Matt

Have you checked the valve clearances? Do you have the standard airbox? Have you checked plug gaps?

I'd be a little concerned with any problems to do with #3 cylinder it's the zzr1100's achillies heel. Any oil problems result in #3 big end knackered, the added clearance on the bearing allows the piston to hit the head.

Davie

there is a motorcycle shop in my village ill try ask them if they can have a look.

there is a few bits ill try first.

ill check the manifold between the engine and the carbs and see if thats in need of repair.

ill fit the air filter again and see if that helps. then strip the carbs down.

ive done nothing major to the engine since i got the bike and stripped it.

Thanks for the above.

Bike engines are a pain but i dont want to give up on it. it was a lovely bike and ran beautiful till i got hold of it.......

it had only done 10k since new and had a full rebuild since i got it from a kawasaki specialist....


DOOOH.

quote:

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Originally posted by daviep
Have you checked the valve clearances? Do you have the standard airbox? Have you checked plug gaps?

I'd be a little concerned with any problems to do with #3 cylinder it's the zzr1100's achillies heel. Any oil problems result in #3 big end knackered, the added clearance on the bearing allows the piston to hit the head.

Davie

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Bike engine multi-plate wet clutches have a habit of sticking when left for a long period of time.
You can usually free them off by starting in gear and depressing the clutch and with a bit of acceleration and braking this can unstick the plates.

As for not being able to select gears at rest, other than 1st or 2nd, this is perfectly normal with a bike box.

cool the clutch thing makes me feel better. thanks.

i just need to start worrying about the #3 thing now.........

sticky exhaust valve maybe, certainly doesn't sound like its sealing

how do i check the valves please?

Dont panic yet

adjust clearances. Remove cam cover and use feeler gauge to check gap under rockers as attached sheet.(this is for zzr1200 so gaps may be different). The shims can be removed after recording the gap by sliding the rockers sideways. COVER ALL OIL HOLES ETC.
Use micrometer to check shim thickness. Add or subtract differences and get appropriate shims. Easy but take your time.

Probably no.3 not firing. Each time I had that it was a plug. Swap plugs and see what happens.

I also had a problem with one carb on mine as the diaphram was not seated properly.




valves


OOpps Bit big!!Text

no worries about the size.

ive saved it now so you can remove it if you want...

cheers

ill try these things and see how i get on.

thank you all for your help and advise on this.

im sorry im asking alot of people but im lost with bike engines. its amazking how i can rebuild a v8 rover engine with my eyes closed but bike engines are like chinese writing to me.

thank you all.....

anything else i shoudl do while im in their.

dave