or at least a snall bolt you can take out and insert a grease nipple (My landy was like that!)
If there is too much play, then replace the joint. They are about a tenner (pattern one not genuine) or so, and relatively easy to do.
With the engine out I've noticed one of the joints at the front of the prop is rough, whilst the other axis is smooth.
Is it possible to remove the circlips on either end of the suspect axis and somehow clean & regrease the joint.
grb.
yes
quote:
Originally posted by matt_gsxr
yes
No, in short. All you can do is replace the joint and bearings. The bearings are pressed in and removing usually knackers them. It's
tricky/fiddly and easy to mess up if you've not changed one before.
adrian
ps. if you do wee about regreasing and don't knacker them, remember if the UJ fails later there's a good chance it'll rip everything
in the tunnel to bits and try it's best to come through and have a go at you.
[Edited on 19/7/10 by adithorp]
You should be able to get a new uj for less than a tenner, really not worth 'rebuilding them', it can be done, but you'll never know if you've lost a roller......
not worth the risk.....rebuilt by the pros cost 120
I did them on an old Transit propshaft before they started staking them so you had to buy a prop. The old one was absolutely shot but the yoke holds
them in place even when they are very loose, no horror stories about them letting go and wrecking the vehicle. That only happens when the shaft breaks
or the bolts come out. Take the circlips out, open the vice jaws and put a big socket one side and a small one the other and tighten the vice so it
pushes the joint through into the big socket then repeat it for the other axis. Make sure you put it back together in the same orientation as you took
it off.
[Edited on 19/7/10 by Peteff]
Did exactly this with my prop, though you may still need to get it re-balanced.
Cheers
Ian
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
I did them on an old Transit propshaft before they started staking them so you had to buy a prop. The old one was absolutely shot but the yoke holds them in place even when they are very loose, no horror stories about them letting go and wrecking the vehicle. That only happens when the shaft breaks or the bolts come out. Take the circlips out, open the vice jaws and put a big socket one side and a small one the other and tighten the vice so it pushes the joint through into the big socket then repeat it for the other axis. Make sure you put it back together in the same orientation as you took it off.
[Edited on 19/7/10 by Peteff]
Rebuilt loads on landy's etc.just get a bearing kit and press them in.don't bother trying to reuse the old bearings.and fill the new ones with more grease before the rollers do end up all over your garage floor!
There should be either a grease nipple in the middle of the + (inner + bit)
or at least a snall bolt you can take out and insert a grease nipple (My landy was like that!)
If there is too much play, then replace the joint. They are about a tenner (pattern one not genuine) or so, and relatively easy to do.
If it's a circlip type joint rather than staked then it's probably meant to be rebuilt.
As an Agric engineer I do loads of them, 90% of the machines that go behind a tractor & need some sort of power use a sliding shaft with UJ
joints. I also fit a lot to off-roader props.
There is a technique to fitting them:
Put one cup in the yoke & press it in but not as far as needed to fit the clip.
Then you fit the cross to that yoke & cup being careful not to dislodge a roller.
Press the cup & cross further than the correct position but be careful not to pop it right through the yoke.
Fit the next cup to the opposite side of the yoke, the cross bring further across the yoke than it should be makes it easier to get the cup in on the
cross without knocking a roller in.
Fit the circlip to the cup that was fitted first.
Push the two cups & cross back across the yoke to get the circlip in for the second cup.
If you get a roller knocked over the cup will not go all the way onto the cross & you'll have a gap where the cup seal comes up against the
centre section of the cross, it is possible but not easy to get things apart & sort this if it happens.
Repeat for the other yoke which will be slightly harder as the first yoke is along for ride getting in the way.
Give the completed joint a few sharp cracks with a small hammer on the yokes to settle things, this should remove any stiffness in the joint.
Nice description. Exactly what I was to lazy to write.
adrian
Thank you all for your wisdom...
The joint does have a grease point... should I first try pumping in some grease in case it's simply a lack of grease on the bearing rollers.
Would the grease gun & lithium grease from the likes of Halfords suit - "Multi Purpose EP Lithium Grease No2" ?
If this doesn't ease the stiffness and it needs a new set of bearings, are there standard sizes - eg: I don't know who made the prop.
grb.
[Edited on 20/7/10 by grb]
Try greasing it. Yes that grease would do the job. The needle rollers are tiny so only need a bit of wear to be stuffed though so it may only be a
temporary fix.
The UJ's are standard sizes. Only 2 common ones from memory; large and small and yours will be the small ones.
adrian
With the prop out of the car I find that on each joint one of the axis of movement is rough.
With the wisdom imparted (eg refit instructions) I'll give it a go...
Does anyone know a supplier of the bearings required (do I reuse the cups & clips?).
The prop looks like:
Description
Description
It makes me wonder how long these joints have been this way, and I assume this is likely to increase the drivetrain losses... and maybe the cause of
a little extra vibration flat out in 5th / 6th...
Anyone recommend a workshop likely to complete the job in the event I can't. I am between Bristol & Gloucester...
grb.