Do you have a BEC with a standard bike Hydraulic Clutch slave that bites too quickly and snatches or stalls the engine?

If you do could you respond in this thread with the make, model and year of engine.

I'm looking into possibly developing an engineered solution but need to get an idea of what demand might be like and for what engines.

Many thanks in advance for taking the time to respond!

[Edited on 15/6/10 by sucksqueezebangblow]

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=137990

something similar today

Yep, here's the answer:

Its really simple to do but hard to explain!
First when you push the clutch lever on the engine there is some free play to take up. This is on the bike for a reason. Its to allow your hand to start pulling on the clutch lever and give it some leverage advantage.
On you foot you have so much power in your leg, this freeplay can be removed so that your clutch lever rests at this point.
Then you need to work out how much travel the cable or clutch slave moves over one complete press of the clutch pedal and measure it.
Use a pair of mole grips to turn your clutch lever until it stops then measure the throw.
On a piece of paper you should be able to figure out how much the extend the lever by.
What is important is that first you have no freeplay, but don't over do it or your clutch will slip and secondly dont pull the clutch lever too far on full pedal or you will break your clutch.
If you do what I said you will have a long but light pedal but you will be able to feel the biting point just like a normal car (cec).

My clutch slave is a wilwood pull type and mounted along the back of my engine


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Thanks both. I'm really interested in those BECs that have Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder as standard, such as my Hayabusa. As opposed to hydraulic conversion of cable clutches.

Mine has a hydraulic clutch but it's sweet as. Only stalled it once and that was doing an up hill start next to a deer so I was trying to use minimal rpm

Also hyd. clutch which isn't usually a problem.

Davie

On the R1 car, I lengthened the clutch arm. That helps a lot as it spreads out the bite point.

gsxr1100 hydraulic clutch is standard, but with a prop-shaft you have to do some magic to get it all to fit so I have a zx9 (I think) slave cylinder and bike rear brake master cylinder.

I do stall a bit, and others driving the car stall it more than me.

I find that taking my shoes off helps as I get more feel, although it might be difficult to patent such an approach (even in america).