Cheers, Nick
anyone done or know where i can find some pics of a busa clutch with cable operation anstead of hydraulic? thinking of swapping if its possible.. fed up with it being unreliable
What's unreliable with your hydraulic one?
Cheers, Nick
keeps needing bleeding - ie no pedal - maybe seals going on clylinders.. just feel a cable would be easier to fix - adjust
I would just replace the master and slaves - that's if they are leaking. Sounds odd to me. Is the bleed nipple leaking maybe, I had this happen
on a tin top once and took me ages to suss it!
Cheers, Nick
cant see any leaks at all.. fluid level is not going down at all.. just keep losing clutch pedal.. gets lower and lower.. new clutch recently (last year) if i wind the adjusters a bit giving it a bit more adjustment it is ok - then gets lower - wonder if fluid needs changing - sure iv seen someone with cables..
Don't think that changing the fluid would do the trick.
How much travel do you have on your clutch pedal cos if you have too much the actuator rod could be over throwing and damaging the clutch? I have a
Westfield slave cylinder and mount fitted to mine, but have had to fit a pedal stop to stop it over throwing - it doesn't take much pedal travel
for this to happen. Just another thought!
Cheers, Nick
quote:
Originally posted by Nick DV
Don't think that changing the fluid would do the trick.
How much travel do you have on your clutch pedal cos if you have too much the actuator rod could be over throwing and damaging the clutch? I have a Westfield slave cylinder and mount fitted to mine, but have had to fit a pedal stop to stop it over throwing - it doesn't take much pedal travel for this to happen. Just another thought!
Cheers, Nick
Made a cable set up for mine, will grab some photos when I get chance.
quote:
Originally posted by Jon Ison
Made a cable set up for mine, will grab some photos when I get chance.
quote:
Originally posted by :{THC}:YosamiteSam
quote:
Originally posted by Nick DV
Don't think that changing the fluid would do the trick.
How much travel do you have on your clutch pedal cos if you have too much the actuator rod could be over throwing and damaging the clutch? I have a Westfield slave cylinder and mount fitted to mine, but have had to fit a pedal stop to stop it over throwing - it doesn't take much pedal travel for this to happen. Just another thought!
Cheers, Nick
how would it damage it?
there is a pedal stop on the chassis to stop that but i can adjust the rod ends on the bar links to give adjustments.. its the free play that gets big.. the pedal bite point gets lower and lower to the floor - just done 4 days thrashing round scotland and it got worse and worse.. clutch itself seems fine.. its the adjustment that goes out.. im designing now how to make some brakets to use a cable.. shouldnt be that hard to try - ill keep the cylinders and go back to them if it doesnt work
You can overthrow the clutch, very important to have a pedal stop, if your pedal is getting longer a stop would soon get in the way though ?
I set mine by putting the car in gear, having someone sit in the car whilst I push it, as soon as I can move the car I set the stop if that makes
sense ?
Rather than try to explain in words my cable set up I will u2u my number to you if you want to chat ?
Rescued attachment 1a.jpg
i understand what you mean but i cant work out why the pedal would change characteristics ie lose pedal.. its like brake fade - the more i use it (over time) it gets lower biting point.. i had to wind the adjusters today to give a better pedal feel.
has to be a fault with one or both of the cylinders ?
might have been hit on, but is the reservoir too small in the fact that air is being pulled into the master cylinder when the pedal is pressed in?
quote:
Originally posted by Blue Devil
might have been hit on, but is the reservoir too small in the fact that air is being pulled into the master cylinder when the pedal is pressed in?
well some success so far - i took the whole caboodle off the car last night to see what was going on..
rigged a jig up on the bench allowing me to bleed and fill it by hand and it does seem to be working ok.. you push the master the slave moves ok..
bled it thro and what appears to be oil came out into the bottle of fluid - it has seperated from the brake / clutch fluid and sat on the top of the
glass jar.. very dark almost black in substance.. i would say it was oil - bled it out as far as i could reassembled and it feels better - how long
will it last - to be seen..
Good luck with the fix.
Just in case anyone else is looking for one, Big CC Racing do a cable clutch conversion kit. Though it is not exactly low cost and would need some
adapting.
I had a problem with mine - it was all OK for about 3 laps then when it got hot I had no pedal. Eventually discovered it was a dodgy slave cylinder
seal, presumably degraded due to heat soak then let air in.
Andy Bates and I tried to bodge a cable mechanism in the paddock at Brands but gave up as the Busa clutch is very beefy and the bracketry was just
bending.
If you're using the Powertec slave just get some new seals from them - got to be worth swapping them while you've got it apart.