Right i've got my sva booked for 3 weeks time, and my engine won't run.
i've tried different ecu and different throttle body assembly.
i just don't know what else it could be, it's turning over and firing sometimes but it won't start

any more idea's?? anyone fancy a trip to cleveleys to show me the one tiny bit i've missed (hopfully)

Do you have a pressure regulator fitted to the return fuel line ?

You may not have enough continuous pressure at the TB's.

The fuel may just be by-passing and going straight back to the tank ?

do you have the following:
clutch / side stand / run switch all bypassed
tip sensor
100ohm resistor (dont know if the r1 needs this or not?)

do you have original clocks? can you get any fault codes?

any spark or injection?

Can't rememebr if you said you had Clock or not, I take it you are getting no error codes?

Try unplugging each sensor one at a time (expcet the Crank Position sensor and cam position sensor which is on the rocker cover) If it starts with one sensor off that one may be giving false readings.

Might also be worth trying to borrow a crank position sensor, start inhibitor relay too.

Can you tell me the part code on the loom and on the ecu? The loom should end with 00 form memory if it's a US one and the ecu should have a 2 digit/letter code in big letters

OK i'm sure i've got all the sidestand/clutch switches sorted out, i've got them all linked out apart from the sidestand, and when i earth that i can hear the starter relay click over.
it's turning over fine, and firing which suggests to me the stater relay has been activated
I'm using the regulator on the TB's which is on the return side so that's as bike setup, and my return lines free flowing
i don't have the origonal clocks or the wiring for them so i can't see any error codes
The ECU is a BO i don't have any lables left on the loom, and since it's turning over and firing i'm thinking the start inhibit relay is working?!?

if number 30 comes up on the clocks, the lean angle switch is stopping it. when i first started mine, there was nothing happening for ages, we changed the plugs and everything. try using a decent amount of easy start, it got ours going, had no problems since.

If it's turning and sparking it's not the inhibit switches.

Could be the tilt switch...
1. Have you got it the right way up (UP on the top)?
2. Have you glued it? If so, check it didn't move before the glue set (mine did).
3. Have you tried another one?

Fuel pressure would give these symptoms as well. Have you got fuel pressure (my brand new pump ran the engine once then lost pressure but still buzzed)? If you switch on you should hear it pressurise the system and then stop. Then switch off and, very carefully, remove the feed pipe from the fuel rail. You should get a little spurt of residual pressure and not just a dribble. If not...
1. Check your feed and return pipes are the right way around (return from the regulator end); One member on here who should know better spent a week trying to find that one.
2.Try it with the return blocked to check its not the relief valve (it will run, but only do it briefly).
3. Is your fuel pick-up clear? A blockage here would do it.

adrian

i'm 90% sure it's not the tilt switch it's glued, and checked, but the fuel pump won't run when the tilt switch is "tilted" guess how i know.......

i've not checked the fuel filter but i've had the hose off, it's definatly making some pressure, if the fuel reg's working right it's pumping more than the fuel reg allows as it'll pour out without the return line on

hi,mine would turn over and fire now and then.it turned out that the ht/coils were on wrong ie no1 on no4,swaped them round and hey presto!
andy

that's somthing that i've tried changing but it only seems to make things worse. could someone tell me the order of the coil wire colour's from the cam chain end, but check them before the connector as sometimes they are supplied switched around.

Tried new plugs?

Phil

yup tried new plugs but the old ones looked fine too

i should have said i have had it running just at idle for a minute or 2 afte that it's not started again

I managed a little progress in trying to get my R1 5vy started today.
I'm now getting sparks
The supplied stripped out harness had a missing connection from the ECU to the chassis.

The engine appears to be getting plenty fuel - plugs are now soaking

I've got a new set of plugs coming tomorrow.

On turning over I'm getting pops and bangs from the exhaust but no hint of an engine kick. (I think the combustion is in the exhaust rather than the cylinders - still some loose y-piece joints in the exhaust system).

Like you I'm hoping that the coil wiring / numbering is correct.

From what I see coil #1 is at the cam chain end and is connected to pin3 of the ECU by the orange wire.

Coil #2 is connected to pin23 by the grey/red wire

Coil #3 is connected to pin2 by the orange/green wire

Coil #4 is connected to pin 1 by the grey/green wire.

Hope this is correct?

eeek sounds close to my problem there's definatly no lack of fuel if anything it's flooding. you might need to swap 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 pops and bangs sounds like incorrect firing order, i can make that happen too!

Big bike engines are an absolute PITA once flooded....

When I went to Lydden Hill two weeks ago, drove to the start, engine stalled and absolutely would not start, pulled the plugs spun the engine over to dry, plugs back in nothing..... tried this many times, you convince yourself something else must be at fault.

In the end used a gas cooker to heat the plugs right up, popped back in while to hot to handle and started instantly on all 4 cylinders, fine for the rest of the day.

If this does not resolve things then I would suggest you isolate items.

unplug the fuel pump, and useeasy start as fuel, squirting a little of this in to the TB's when cranking, if it fires and runs then electrics are all good.

Plug the fuel pump back in, off with the TB's from the block and crank over, you should see a mist of fuel squirting (take care, have an extinquisher handy) from each injector.

You can lose compression by washing down the bores with fuel, a small amount of oil down each plug hole then turn the engine over should restore this.

Maybe it just needs new plugs, you may have got a dodgy batch.

One good rule with bike engines, do not start and run for short periods of time, once running leave to warm up properly even if just shunting around the garage.

Regards Mark

5VY R1 cylinders are numbered by Yamaha from the left as mounted in the bike. IE, No4 is timing chain end.

adrian

Don't remember if you said this but have you checked all the earths are tight and not put on over paint? I've found bad earths are a real pain in the A hole. Hope you get things sorted soon. Stick at it!

all earths are direct to the battery

quote:

---

Originally posted by adithorp
5VY R1 cylinders are numbered by Yamaha from the left as mounted in the bike. IE, No4 is timing chain end.

adrian

---

R1 5vy Cylinder Numbering

If you've tried starting the car so many times it may be as simple as a flat battery. 2mins running will not have recharged the battery after starting the car.

Also, Starter (negative) should be connected to chassis not direct to battery and the battery (negative) connected to this.

batterys fine, its normaly boosted by a charger during start attempts, and topped up with an optimate clone.

i have an extra earth from the engine mount back to the battery, started earths though this

so any other suggestions, oil in the bores, and nice hot plugs is about the best i've got to try at the moment

I don't know where you got your engine and wiring loom from but what ECU are you using. If it is the one from the bike the engine came from then the 5VY engine has an immobiliser in it which will only work if you have the original key and barrel from the bike, as you do not have the clocks you would not be able to see this.
MNR had to get me an ECU for this reason as the barrel was damaged on the bike it came from rendering the ECU useless.
Just a thought as you seem to have tried everything else.

Luckily the 5vy ECU I was trying to get running had been supplied / modified by Track Electronics therefore did not have an immobiliser or the Exup wiring (stripped to the bare minimum for racing).

Mine came from them aswell, they also stripped my loom to the bare minimum. They also told me the ECU's can not be modified they supply U.S. spec with no immobiliser.
You should have also got the instruction sheet which tells you to check/move the wires for the injectors and coils in the ECU plug.

[Edited on 3/4/09 by stuart_g]