jamrogers
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| posted on 15/12/08 at 10:32 AM |
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SVA Brake ballance bar
Can anyone tell me the correct way to lock a brake ballence bar for the sva test please, cheers in advance, jamie
build diary http://jamstigeravon.blogspot.com/
YouTube
https://youtu.be/JwwwilUd5Zo
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nitram38
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| posted on 15/12/08 at 10:48 AM |
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Drill the adjuster nuts (once you are sure that the setting is right) and push roll pins in.
Can't be reversed without hassle so be sure that your bias is towards the front and that they lock first.
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jamrogers
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| posted on 15/12/08 at 11:17 AM |
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hi nitram - or anyone else - do u have any pics so i can see, cheers jamie
build diary http://jamstigeravon.blogspot.com/
YouTube
https://youtu.be/JwwwilUd5Zo
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 15/12/08 at 11:24 AM |
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I bought a kit from CBS, which looks like short peice of copper pipe, and some other bits and peices. I'm yet to figure it out....
It was part of a large order, and I knew I needed to lock the boas bar, so I bought it - didn't come with any insructions though.
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stuart_g
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| posted on 15/12/08 at 02:39 PM |
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Don't buy the kit from CBS it is a rip off. Make yourself a couple of spacers and buy the nuts from a fastner wholesaler, drill and roll pin
them. Your SVA tester may let you drill and roll pin it during the test, mine did. I just told him I wanted to make sure it was adjusted correctly
before drilling and roll pinning.
Here is a pic
 
Rescued attachment P1010105.JPG
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markyb
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| posted on 15/12/08 at 04:04 PM |
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I am not looking forward to trying to get my head and a drill down there at SVA time
[Edited on 15/12/08 by markyb]
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blakep82
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| posted on 15/12/08 at 06:22 PM |
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i can't work out why a nyloc isn't acceptable...
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 15/12/08 at 08:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
i can't work out why a nyloc isn't acceptable...
The roll-pins are to prevent deliberate adjustment, something a nyloc wouldn't achieve. The brake balance is tested at SVA to make sure the
rears don't lock before the fronts and they need to be sure it can't easily be altered.
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nitram38
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| posted on 15/12/08 at 08:59 PM |
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You are still allowed some adjustment as long as you cannot go past the "worst case senario" (in the sva manual). In other words beyond
the point at which the fronts no longer lock first.
I got mine passed with pinning the end lock nuts and using half-nuts on the threaded rod so that the balance bar can still be adjusted.
I pointed this out at sva and was told this was correct.
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blakep82
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| posted on 15/12/08 at 11:52 PM |
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i have to admit, i really don't understand balance bars,
i don't know how well i'll be able to explain this, or understand the answer  but here goes...
going by this
the balance is adjusted by how far the clevises are screwed onto the push rods? is that correct?
why do the nuts on the threaded bar need to be locked? surely all that does is screw through the clevises? and link them together through the pedal?
woudn't screwing the bar in and out just move the bar?
i don't get it 
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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nitram38
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| posted on 16/12/08 at 07:31 AM |
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Look at picture 2.
When pressure is applied, one cylinder is pushed in more than the other.
That would be your front brake cylinder.
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shades
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| posted on 17/12/08 at 07:23 PM |
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Drill the nut first. Wind the bar so its as so the ball in the tube is as far to the side of the front master cylinder before it starts coming out.
Fit the nut, go for a spin brake heavily so just the front wheels lock. The rears shouldnt.
Drill back through the nut and now through the bar and fit the roll pin.
No problems at the SVA.
If its not ok there is still a bit of adjustment in the bar of the master cylinder. It can be wound in/out of the pedal.
Picture above is missing some non slip surface on the brake and clutch pedal
[Edited on 17/12/08 by shades]
Thanks
Adrian
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jamrogers
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| posted on 26/12/08 at 12:11 AM |
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cheers for the picture, i'll drill me nuts then - sounds painfull lol - i might do a video and put it on my build diary demonstrating adjusting
a ballance bar as i think many people don't get it..... anyone think it would be helpfull?
build diary http://jamstigeravon.blogspot.com/
YouTube
https://youtu.be/JwwwilUd5Zo
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joemotion
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| posted on 30/12/08 at 11:52 AM |
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Gotta lock mine off as well - had a couple of goes in my court yesterday (as not legal yet) but think the neighbours are getting annoyed with my back
wheels skidding past them! Does the thread need to be more on the right than the left of the brake as shown in your pic - i have discs on the rear as
well? I have a remote adjuster which fits on the right of the bar - does this have to be fixed securely in place for the sva or should i just remove
it as it wont be needed after it is pinned?
quote:
Originally posted by stuart_g
Don't buy the kit from CBS it is a rip off. Make yourself a couple of spacers and buy the nuts from a fastner wholesaler, drill and roll pin
them. Your SVA tester may let you drill and roll pin it during the test, mine did. I just told him I wanted to make sure it was adjusted correctly
before drilling and roll pinning.
Here is a pic
[Edited on 30/12/08 by joemotion]
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t.j.
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| posted on 30/12/08 at 08:15 PM |
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So if one does leak, you will have no brakes at all due the bar???
Don't want that in my car!
Or am I missing something?
Please feel free to correct my bad English, i'm still learning. Your Dutch is awfull! :-)
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 (WinCE).JPG)
