Hi mate the air correction holes you block off are the top brass holes in this photo there in line with the main needles
Bogg Bro use 2,5mm aluminium welding rod
Dont push the rod flush until you have tried the set up in case you have to remove the rod agane


carbs on manifold

Graham

ah, cool, i was wondering what they are. do they need filtered air? i've got some trumpets on the way now

The air filter fits over that area

Thank you very much, IŽll try it how you say! For me it is very helpfull! Im very glad!

And about other items setup:

My original ZX9R E1 carbs:

main jet - 160-165-165-160
pilot jet - 38 all
needle - N 9 88 with 1 shim

For testing I have 4x170 main jet and 4x175.

Yesterday I tried setup needle - orig shims had 0.5mm - I rise it on 1,8mm shims rise up needle - engine going better.... but spark are still white color (now I still dont have air filter)

Next question - which Pilot jet are you use? May be my 38 is to lean...

Do you have under needle 2x original shims? - 1mm both togeather?






Thank very much to Jacko! And I will be very glad for any setup from anybody who running ZX9R carbs!

Next week Im going to 7meeting to Alp mountines - 5 day driving around 2000km and I have to preper my carbs for this trip I need power (in mountains is 30% power out ) and good consumption but not so much lean - I dont want burn through pistons or valve...

Thank you very much for help from good people. This is great forum!

Regards,
Petr

Hi Mate
This is how my carbs are set up by Bogg Brothers

The pilot idle mixture screws are 1 turn out this is for when the engine is idling.

I have 2 shims/ washers under the main needles.
The air correction holes are blocked off.
The main jets are 1.7mm [ old jets drilled out ]

My engine has a piper 258 cam
the cylinder head has had 2mm planned off it
the ignition is a modified dizzy by H&H ignition solution

Mind you don't damage your engine by running it to LEAN

Graham

[Edited on 5/5/10 by jacko]