mad-butcher
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 12:24 PM |
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open question to Mr Henderson
Hi John
If you're looking for work to fund a pipe bender why not produce front upper wishbones for the mk indy, with the ball joint mount moved back by
about 15mm to cure the self centering and also instead of being threaded be capable of taking the alloy camber adjuster. I'm not worried about
it being kicked up.
I'm sure there would be a market for it
Tony
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nick205
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 12:32 PM |
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While you're at it, why not make them to accept rod ends too for full adjustability.
I also have a design drawn up for replacement rear upper and lower wishbones for the Indy. Aimed at providing toe adjustment and re-located lower
damper mounting point to allow for increased suspension travel.
Happy to share the ideas and I'd be interested in a set being made too 
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 12:39 PM |
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if anyone is bothered about the upper wishbone location, why not simply cut off the mounting brackets and re-weld further back? Should take all of an
hour to do.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 12:47 PM |
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I would do but I want a wishbone that will take the camber adjusters instead of having to disconnect the top balljoint from the mushroom and only then
being able to set it too within one turn of the balljoint.in other words a complete package.
Tony
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nick205
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 12:55 PM |
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I don't have a welder (or the inclination to start hacking my car about) 
I'd also like more adjustability built into the car too.
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aka Keith
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 12:57 PM |
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mr H, I would aslo be interested in this, depending on price ofcourse (it is locost). (Like nick205 no welding factilites in my garage you see)
Cheers
Craig
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whitestu
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 01:23 PM |
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I'd be interested in a set as well.
Stu
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 02:06 PM |
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I want to be able to use these,
I'd even send one of my wishbones as a
template
Just to add they are availiable from gts at about £50 a pair, which I think is a fair price,
unfortunately for darren I'm not prepared to chase around for delivery, do a search on gts.
[Edited on 20/10/08 by mad-butcher]
 
Rescued attachment DAR013.JPG
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mookaloid
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 02:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mad-butcher
I want to be able to use these,
I'd even send one of my wishbones as a template
I'll be wanting some of those soon
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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mr henderson
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 03:50 PM |
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Well, since it's an open question then I guess it needs an open answer.
Unfortunately although I am well set up for chassis making, I never intended to offer wishbones. Naturally in the light of such enquiries I would
normally be reconsidering but I have now become involved in a project to prototype a new kit car and I think it would be best if I stuck to that for
the time being.
From what I remember of the MK wishbones the top units are bent to shape? I know that is how Martin was doing them in the very early Locost days.
Has anybody approached him or the current MK producers regarding what should be only comparatively slight modifications to their existing units?
It's usually cheaper and quicker for an exisiting producer to modify a current design for which they have all the jigs and other tools than for
somebody else to tackle such a job from scratch.
Thanks for the interest
John
[Edited on 20/10/08 by mr henderson]
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3GEComponents
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 05:58 PM |
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We're currently doing this to the wishbones for the Haynes Roadster, as Mr H isn't in the postion to do wishbones, it's something
we'd be more than happy to look at.
Feel free to U2U us with any questions.
Regards
John
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Hellfire
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 06:56 PM |
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Something like these?
 
Front wishbones
Phil
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 07:15 PM |
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Phil
Them's the dogs bollocks
I assume by being rose joints you can alter caster to aid the self centering
who and how much,
look's like martins work but I know mac1 were working on a set like that
info please
tony
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 07:49 PM |
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I would order a set with the correct caster.. Not worried about spherical ends though, would rather have original ploy inserts..
Dan,
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Hellfire
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 07:58 PM |
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You may find that your existing top wishbones are made to the correct dimensions. Have you measured your O/S and N/S castor angles?
Phil
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bob
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 08:03 PM |
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Keep us up to date if these bones are going to be made available as i would be interested
GTS were making indy top wishbones with the top ball joint adjuster. pretty sure zetec (kevin) had a set on his car.
Only prob being darrens reliability need i say more.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 08:09 PM |
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We had some GTS wishbones with built in camber adjusters and found they weren't very good. It was a PITA to adjust the camber on them because
you couldn't get onto the adjuster with a ring spanner or socket due to the 'V' shape/design. Only way to adjust them was with an
open ended spanner, turning them bit by bit at a jaunty angle 
Phil
[Edited on 20-10-08 by Hellfire]
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bob
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 08:12 PM |
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Grabbed this pic from zetec's archive.jpg)
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bob
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| posted on 20/10/08 at 08:13 PM |
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Cheers phil, yes i can see from the picture i have put up exactly what you mean.
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 07:42 AM |
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Hi Phil,
Good point should actually measure the caster, but the kit is a 2004 one, I didn't know that MK sports cars had changed the caster angle on
latter Indys..
Cheers
Dan
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procomp
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 07:57 AM |
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Hi.
Just a few suggestions that may save some of you wasting money.
1. the trouble with the MK indy chassis and bracket positions is that they are all inconsistent. Ie one car may have 1 deg of Castor on the left and 4
deg on the right but another car may have 3 deg on the left and 0 deg on the right. Obviously this means that you will find the use of rose joints
invaluable to try and correct this apparent lack of accurate jigging on the chassis.
2. Why not put the correct angle onto a new top wishbone. It is this angle on the end that has led to a few of the top joints coming apart as the
transit joint is not in it's mid position of available travel at static ride height. This means that it reaches the end of it's travel
before the damper or suspension has. If changing top wishbones you may as well correct this problem also.
3. the first thing i would suggest before having just top wishbones made is to get the whole car geometry setup checked as you may also want to be
correcting the difference in wheelbase of either side while having new wishbones made. But it is also wort finding out where the thrust line is down
the car as this may affect what decisions you are going to have to make. It maybe you actually need a new set of front top and bottom wishbones
ideally fully adjustable but this will to some extent be down to how poorly the rear end has also been jigged into the chassis affecting the thrust
alignment and rear toe situation.
HTH cheers Matt
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whitestu
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 08:48 AM |
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My only reason for being interested is to get a decent bit of self centreing on the car.
Having said that I haven't had my suspension set up properly so maybe it's worth doing this and then seeing how it self centres.
The only downsite is if it's no better and suspension modifications are needed then its wasted money.
Stu
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 10:20 AM |
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Maybe it's me being a bit blind, but out of curiousity, what stops those GTS adjuster things from turning in the tube, when all is finished
being adjusted? There's nothing visible to me.
Cheers,
Syd.
[Edited on 21/10/08 by Syd Bridge]
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Hellfire
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 11:06 AM |
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Won't the locking nut prevent the adjuster from turning in the tube? The actual adjuster is slightly shorter than the tube itself.
Phil
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 02:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
Won't the locking nut prevent the adjuster from turning in the tube? The actual adjuster is slightly shorter than the tube itself.
Phil
The locking nut appears to be on the drag link. No visible threads on the adjuster sleeve thingy, and you say it stops short of the end of the
tube.
So what stops the adjuster sleeve thingy from turning?
Cheers,
Syd.
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