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Author: Subject: Team Dynamic Offset..... again
paulmw

posted on 11/7/08 at 08:09 PM Reply With Quote
Team Dynamic Offset..... again

Following my previous post I cant find on the wheel where it says the ET. The wheels still dont look right and rub the body quite badly over bumps. I'm sure there not a 38 ET as specified. I bought them from a good source so should I send them back

Paul Rescued attachment DSCN0248.JPG
Rescued attachment DSCN0248.JPG

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paulmw

posted on 11/7/08 at 08:11 PM Reply With Quote
pic2 Rescued attachment DSCN0246.JPG
Rescued attachment DSCN0246.JPG

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adithorp

posted on 11/7/08 at 09:32 PM Reply With Quote
Have you measured them Paul?

Easiest way (there's a few methods) is put a ruler/streight edge across the inner rim and measure the depth from that to the mounting face(A). Then do the same from the outer rim(B). Subtract one from the other and divide by 2. So (A-B)/2= et

adrian

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stuart_g

posted on 11/7/08 at 10:11 PM Reply With Quote
Mine have the ET dot punched into the inner part of the rim.
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welderman

posted on 11/7/08 at 10:15 PM Reply With Quote
all of the alloys ive had have had some form of marking on the stating off set





Thank's, Joe

I don't stalk people


http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301

Back on with the Fisher Fury R1

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indykid

posted on 11/7/08 at 10:20 PM Reply With Quote
that looks like mine. mine are et38 but 205 tyres. i've had to take alllllllll the return out of the outside of the arches and they still catch slightly.

mine are pro race 1s and when i bought mine they were cast and milled to order. all cast to about et14 then milled back as required. the et was written on in permanent marker.

the pro race 1.2s seem a bit more mass produced but i'd still not be surprised if there were individual castings for individual offsets for it to actually be marked on the wheel.

i'm reasonably confident those in the picture are et38 anyway
tom






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indykid

posted on 11/7/08 at 10:25 PM Reply With Quote
like this

tom Rescued attachment arch.jpg
Rescued attachment arch.jpg







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Hellfire

posted on 12/7/08 at 01:21 PM Reply With Quote
Put some negative camber on the wheels and take the edge off the rear arch. That should cure it.

Phil






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PAUL FISHER

posted on 12/7/08 at 01:35 PM Reply With Quote
As Phil says you need 2 to 3 degrees negative camber on there,toyo recommend you run around 3 degrees on the R888,if you check out there webb site,I run the R888 and I think the Indy R chassis feels with better this amount on the rear,also the 195 R888 is wider than 195mm,if I recall its just over 200mm wide,so this can also be part of your problem,although I run 205 R888 on the rear of my car on et38 7" pro race 1,2's.with no problems,

[Edited on 19/05/04 by PAUL FISHER]

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