aka Keith
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posted on 13/4/08 at 05:29 PM |
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help please idiot question
help please, just went out to look over the car. found a leak in the brakes at the join between the metal pipes and the splitter by the pedals. how do
i fix? i only just picked the car up.
[Edited on 13/4/08 by aka Keith]
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MikeR
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posted on 13/4/08 at 05:36 PM |
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by "splitter by the pedals" do you mean a 'T' piece where it takes the pedal fluid and splits it to either side of the car at
the front?
The simple answer (you don't want to hear) is to remake that union or worst, remake that section.
I've not done my brakes so this could be bad advice. I'd clean all around that area with kitchen roll. press the brakes once or twice and
try to identify which union the fluid is coming from. I'd then give that union between 1/8 and a 1/4 turn. If it doesn't stop it (assuming
its not lose to begin with) then its either a spilt pipe or bad end on the pipe.
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fesycresy
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posted on 13/4/08 at 05:39 PM |
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The splitter or 'tee' piece you are talking about may have been overtightened. This may have caused it to splay open and would need a new
one.
And the obvious one, is it tight ?
HTH
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The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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aka Keith
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posted on 13/4/08 at 05:41 PM |
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mike, it is the t piece to the rear. i think that the pipe is gone one of them. how does the metal pipe mate with the t?
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aka Keith
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posted on 13/4/08 at 05:43 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by fesycresy
The splitter or 'tee' piece you are talking about may have been overtightened. This may have caused it to splay open and would need a new
one.
And the obvious one, is it tight ?
HTH
where do i get a new one from?
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worX
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posted on 13/4/08 at 05:47 PM |
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This might not be what you are after but this is a prett good place to get this sort of thing from!
RALLY DESIGN
Steve
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britishtrident
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posted on 13/4/08 at 05:59 PM |
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Tighten it up ! with decent 11mm opened ended or special brake pipe spanner.
If that dosen't work you need to get the flare re-made.
If you have to ask this kind of question are you really sure you should have bought such a specialist car.
rident]
[Edited on 13/4/08 by britishtrident]
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aka Keith
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posted on 13/4/08 at 06:10 PM |
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ok,i have been back outside to look. the small copper pipe from the main cylinder to the splitter has gone as it enters the splitter. how is the pipe
joined to its joining nut? is it a replace the pipe, nut, splitter or all three?
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fesycresy
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posted on 13/4/08 at 06:19 PM |
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This is a flare:
Flare
Unfortunately, we can't tell you what to replace without seeing it.
As trident says, try nipping it up, then if that doesn't work, take it apart.
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The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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mark chandler
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posted on 13/4/08 at 06:32 PM |
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No such thing as an idiot question!
As above try nipping it up a little tighter, if that fails then if you can easily get to both ends remove and take to a motor factor to copy, only
costs a few £££.
If you cannot easily remove, pipe to the rear as an example it is perfectly acceptable to have a join, this assumes you have a hand held flaring tool
which I suspect is not the case here.
Regards Mark
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fesycresy
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posted on 13/4/08 at 06:32 PM |
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Just to add, to be safe, I'd take the pipe off and take it to a motor factors for a new one. I think it's pretty obvious you haven't
got a flare kit in your box !
Don't take chances with the brakes and if you are not sure, no matter how trivial, please ask.
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The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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aka Keith
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posted on 13/4/08 at 06:33 PM |
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fesycresy, that looks familiar. what is it called exactly so that i get a replacement. sorry for all the idiot questions.
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aka Keith
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posted on 13/4/08 at 06:35 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by fesycresy
Just to add, to be safe, I'd take the pipe off and take it to a motor factors for a new one. I think it's pretty obvious you haven't
got a flare kit in your box !
Don't take chances with the brakes and if you are not sure, no matter how trivial, please ask.
dont worry mate .
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fesycresy
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posted on 13/4/08 at 06:52 PM |
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It's just a flare. Take the pipe to the motor factors and they'll match it. No problems.
Be carefull when you take it apart to hold the tee piece, so you don't kink the other pipes (assuming it's not bolted to the chassis).
You'll have to take your rear calipers off to bleed as it looks like you've got and Indy and the bleed nipples face down as fitted to the
car.
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The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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Litemoth
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posted on 13/4/08 at 06:54 PM |
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.....there'll be the 'bleeding' afterwards of course.......
If you're not sure about this brake stuff, I'd get someone whos more confident to help you out practically, it's not really a great
area to learn the hard way.
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Bluemoon
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posted on 14/4/08 at 08:43 AM |
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Might be worth getting some other locals over if your unsure, there is an Oxfordshire group that meet once a month do as search and U2U a few people
that go I'm sure someone will give you a hand.. I would come out and help but I am to busy at the moment due to an impending house move..
Dan
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aka Keith
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posted on 14/4/08 at 10:44 AM |
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Blue, I did ping a U2U to another builder in the areas "Rek" but I have not heard anything as yet. If nothing, then i will take it to the
local Garage and see what they can do.
Cheers
Craig
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Jubal
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posted on 14/4/08 at 12:15 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by britishtridentIf you have to ask this kind of question are you really sure you should have bought such a specialist
car.
Err, by that measure then only competent home mechanics should ever buy a kit car? My view is that you learn as you go on what's possible at
home to maintain the car with limited tools by asking questions and weighing up the job. But if you don't fancy the job then you have to have
built some support around you or the car's off the road.
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David Jenkins
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posted on 14/4/08 at 12:31 PM |
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When I started my car I had done little more than basic maintenance on a car; I certainly had never changed brake pipes, let alone install a whole new
system!
Of all the systems in a car, the brakes are probably one of the simplest - but it has to be done right, and done carefully.
As said above - try tightening it a bit (but be careful as it's easy to round off the hex on the connector). If that doesn't work take off
the pipe and have a good look at the state of the flare - if it's dirty, mis-shapen, cracked or has a distinct ring around it then you need to
think about replacing the pipe. This isn't difficult to do, especially if you take the old one to a decent motor factors who'll make you
a new one - try to keep it in its original shape, so they can match it as far as possible.
A few things to watch - you will spill brake fluid, so make sure you've got something to catch it with. Best to wear gloves (latex ones are
good, as long as you're not allergic to it) as the fluid is poisonous. It is also inflammable and will strip paint, so mind where it goes! A
roll of kitchen towel or workshop equivalent is also useful for mopping up and cleaning.
If you have to replace the pipe, clean out the holes in the caliper and connector with a cotton bud if necessary (only necessary if rubbish has got in
there). Fit the connector nuts by hand first - if they don't go in by hand there's something wrong. Only use the spanner once the nuts
are started properly.
Finally you'll have to bleed the brakes - that depends on the system you've got in the car so you'll have to take advice. You will
need a quantity of new brake fluid though. While you're at it you might as well replace all the brake fluid and bleed the whole system -
it's not a hard job.
I'm sure someone will post if I've missed anything...
If you get hold of a Haynes manual for the donor car (Sierra?) you'll find a lot of helpful info. They also do a book on basic car maintenance
that will tell you all about brake system maintenance - might be useful?
HTH,
David
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aka Keith
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posted on 14/4/08 at 12:44 PM |
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Cheers David, thanks for the wise words.
Cheers
Craig
Again, this might sound a stupid question, but I have left a message with the previous owners as to what brake fluid they used, but no reply as yet.
I know you cannot mix certain types, but is there an easy way of telling which type it is? or which type I should be using.
[Edited on 14/4/08 by aka Keith]
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David Jenkins
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posted on 14/4/08 at 01:07 PM |
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The biggest rule is: don't be scared of it, just be careful.
When you've finished whatever you have to do, check for leaks while someone's got their full weight on the brake pedal. Don't
accept anything other than zero leaks.
The brake pedal should feel firm under your foot; if it feels spongy, or the pedal moves too far, then you've still got air in the system. Keep
bleeding until the pedal is firm.
After that, try the brakes out on the road - start gently close to home (in your drive initially!) and work up to full emergency stops on a quiet
back-road.
If you make sure your brain is engaged at all times then it's just common sense.
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