James
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posted on 12/7/12 at 01:37 PM |
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Shimming for rear toe- how to?
Not got an Indy but let's just say that my rear suspension is quite inspired by it! I realise the toe is only adjustable with shims between the
Sierra hub and the upright.
I'm hoping to get the car 4-wheel aligned in the next week or so at a place near me.
They weren't that keen on helping with the rear toe setting so I'd like to make it as simple/efficient for them as possible.
What thickness shim = what degree of adjustment?
Thanks!
James
Edited for simplicity and common sense!
[Edited on 12/7/12 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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tegwin
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posted on 12/7/12 at 02:28 PM |
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Washers are not ideal... the "norm" is to machine a disk of metal to precise angles so it fits perfectly into place....
You could take a load of thin shim metal with you and get them to play with it until its as close as they can get it..... then go home, remove the
shims and measure them...then you can get the correct camber/toe wedges made up.
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Twin40
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posted on 12/7/12 at 02:40 PM |
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I've got a similar issue ( I think). Not sure what to tell the geometery guys when they do the chassis/suspension
I'm running the rose-jointed setup though, so i assume this gives me the ability to make toe/camber adjustments without the need for shimming?
Anyone else running a similar setup?
Description
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renetom
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posted on 12/7/12 at 05:21 PM |
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Rear toe
Hi
We used 0.5mm Stainless steel rectangular pieces with 2 holes, as many as you need
Can't be that far out ?.
With a rotary laser its quite an easy job to do, we only needed 1 shim on our Indy .
UtU if you need any help.
René
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mark chandler
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posted on 12/7/12 at 05:23 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Twin40
I've got a similar issue ( I think). Not sure what to tell the geometery guys when they do the chassis/suspension
I'm running the rose-jointed setup though, so i assume this gives me the ability to make toe/camber adjustments without the need for shimming?
Anyone else running a similar setup?
Description
Snap
OSR suspension + diff built
You can adjust everything
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procomp
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posted on 12/7/12 at 06:33 PM |
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Hi
Just remember that getting the tracking right is only half the game. You need to get the thrust line dialed in to within 2mm at the front axle
line.
Cheers Matt
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Custardpants
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posted on 13/7/12 at 09:34 PM |
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I ended up using trig to work the thickness out - it ended up being a very small shim thickness (less than 1mm i think?). It isn't exactly
difficult but more time consuming, and might cost a lot if they charge by the hour, definitely a good idea to make up some shims beforehand..
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