mistergrumpy
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 05:06 PM |
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Ah. I see all now. That big "X" brace does actually look a good idea. The longitudinal ones I have one of because of the bike engine,
which seems to be omitted on CEC's. Cheers Scootz.
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 05:20 PM |
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Thank you procomp I think you've just saved me a fortune, was going to bring my MK down to get it set up, but after reading the above I'd
only be wasting my money, the way I see your statement above is yes we can set your car up statically, but the moment you drive it on the road
it's going to flex that much that the work we've done will be of no benefit. thinking about it great way to make money but sorry if the
chassis is so shite I think I'll save my hard earned cash.
tony
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austin man
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 09:56 PM |
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if the chasis is so shite how on earth does it fare so well on the track ?
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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snoopy
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:23 PM |
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i dont see much difference ?
 
la gold
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mark chandler
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:24 PM |
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I built mine with around 7degrees caster and it centres pushing forward by hand, no chassis flex going on at 1mph although my chassis has lots of
extra bracing as it looked like a good idea at the time of build.
Last year I pulled out the rubber bushes and replaced with rose joints, with these in place I can twiddle the lower arms forward and pull the top
bones back easily, the offset washers allow plenty of flexibility here.
Of course you could always do what they did 30 years ago and locate the rear arm much further back then extending the rose joint makes loads of
difference.
 
Rescued attachment 1969_repco_brabham_bt-30.jpeg
Just have to make sure that lock is not compromised I guess.
Food for thought anyway, you could land this arm on the bulkhead junction and move the loads into the centre of the car.
[Edited on 28/3/11 by mark chandler]
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MikeR
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:39 PM |
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My only concern with that approach (and i think it is a very good approach) is what happens in an accident.
Theoretically the wishbones fail first on a frontal impact, is there not a (low) risk of a wishbone spearing a driver / passenger. I do appreciate, if
the wishbones are contained at the front and fail, then there is a risk a wheel may hit a passenger. Just mentioning it for discussion.
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MikeR
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 10:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snoopy
i dont see much difference ?
Is that a standard Indy? Doesn't look anything like any Indy's i've seen on here or at shows.
Is it the newer Indy R (if thats the name, sorry, not 100% sure).
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mad4x4
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 01:37 AM |
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Lets keep the Chassis stiffining to this threadChassis
stiffening
And keep this one on the Front suspension
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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scootz
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 06:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mad-butcher
Thank you procomp I think you've just saved me a fortune, was going to bring my MK down to get it set up, but after reading the above I'd
only be wasting my money, the way I see your statement above is yes we can set your car up statically, but the moment you drive it on the road
it's going to flex that much that the work we've done will be of no benefit. thinking about it great way to make money but sorry if the
chassis is so shite I think I'll save my hard earned cash.
tony
That's not what Matt is saying Tony.
Take your MK to him and he will do as you ask... he'll either strengthen the front area of the chassis then address the set-up
(recommended), or he will just set-up the suspension as best he can given the chassis as it stands (not recommended). Your call!
It's Evolution Baby!
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nitram38
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 06:51 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mad4x4
any one know a source of OVAL steel tube
www.ralt.co.uk
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whitestu
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 07:19 AM |
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quote:
That's not what Matt is saying Tony.
Take your MK to him and he will do as you ask... he'll either strengthen the front area of the chassis then address the set-up (recommended), or
he will just set-up the suspension as best he can given the chassis as it stands (not recommended). Your call!
I'm sure that's right and that Matt is very knowledgable, but he comes across as having the opinion that anyone who has bought an MK is an
idiot, which isn't going to encourage people to take their cars to him to get them sorted out.
Stu
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procomp
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 09:28 AM |
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Hi
I would just like to say that i have done nothing but try to point you guys in the right direction. I have very little time to spend on here at
present as it's the start of the race season and I'm running behind with prep on cars that need to be ready to race very soon. I am not
treating MK owners like idiots i am simply trying to help many make the best of the bad situation they find themselves in. I have no interest in
comparing what i do with chassis compared to Mk or anyone else. Nor do i intend to try and start modding MK chassis to make profit. So lets get that
sorted first.
The Mk chassis has no strength in the foot well bulkhead due to there being no tubes all the way across that area. The bent tubes that are there with
deformed side walls are adding no strength and combined with the lack of any triangulation going forwards you are simply left with major flex in that
area which is not allowing a stiff platform for the suspension to work from. As i described in the other thread you can flex the chassis by hand when
pulling and pushing the front wheels. Cure this area first and allow the suspension to work from a stiff platform.
Cheers Matt
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Davegtst
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 09:49 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
quote:
Originally posted by snoopy
i dont see much difference ?
Is that a standard Indy? Doesn't look anything like any Indy's i've seen on here or at shows.
Is it the newer Indy R (if thats the name, sorry, not 100% sure).
Thats not an indy R. Looks nothing like mine.
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Frosty
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 10:36 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
quote:
Originally posted by snoopy
i dont see much difference ?
Is that a standard Indy? Doesn't look anything like any Indy's i've seen on here or at shows.
Is it the newer Indy R (if thats the name, sorry, not 100% sure).
Thats not an indy R. Looks nothing like mine.
No the picture posted is the LA Gold which is Procomp's chassis.
Windscreen Wipers
Need windscreen wipers for your car? Order from a friendly kit car owner.
Don't pay a garage to do them. You built a car for God's sake - I'm sure you can fit your own wipers! 
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whitestu
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 10:57 AM |
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Adding in some additional chassis tubes doesn't seem very difficult if the payoff is as Matt suggests.
Stu
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mad4x4
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 12:14 PM |
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were not knocking you expertise Matt. But some of our cars have been on the raod a while and I don;t want to strip the side panels off to weld in
stiffeners. We should be able to get the steering better than it is so it at least meats SVA / IVA standards. At the moment mine does't even
offer to self centre anything would be better than nothing
I went through all sorts of mods to try and get the rack to work better.
I eventually got through woth about 10 Deg of toe out and 45 psi in each tyre by the skin of my teeth.
Even a turnip in the greenhouse should be able to say .... well thats not right.
Yes strengthening the chassis may help but there seems to be something more fundamentally wrong.
If uncle RON can get it right on a match box surely we can get it right here.
Currently I have bought rose ends and weldments and plan either re-make the MK Arms or Modfiy the originals.
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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Frosty
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| posted on 29/3/11 at 01:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mad4x4
were not knocking you expertise Matt. But some of our cars have been on the raod a while and I don;t want to strip the side panels off to weld in
stiffeners. We should be able to get the steering better than it is so it at least meats SVA / IVA standards. At the moment mine does't even
offer to self centre anything would be better than nothing
I went through all sorts of mods to try and get the rack to work better.
I eventually got through woth about 10 Deg of toe out and 45 psi in each tyre by the skin of my teeth.
Even a turnip in the greenhouse should be able to say .... well thats not right.
Yes strengthening the chassis may help but there seems to be something more fundamentally wrong.
If uncle RON can get it right on a match box surely we can get it right here.
Currently I have bought rose ends and weldments and plan either re-make the MK Arms or Modfiy the originals.
But dumping a bucket-load of caster into the car doesn't automatically fix things. Caster does sometimes help with self-centring, yes. But
self-centring is not the reason cars use castor.
Caster and KPI are responsible for the camber change when you turn your wheels from lock to lock. Turn your wheels on full lock and stand in front of
your car. One of the weels will be on massive negative camber, the other will be on positive.
By altering castor, you'll be changing this behaviour also, so you can't just dump in a load of castor and think everything will be ok.
I would start with the easy stuff first. Remove the steering rack and make sure it's smooth in operation. Check for grease etc.
Windscreen Wipers
Need windscreen wipers for your car? Order from a friendly kit car owner.
Don't pay a garage to do them. You built a car for God's sake - I'm sure you can fit your own wipers!
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