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help please idiot question
aka Keith - 13/4/08 at 05:29 PM

help please, just went out to look over the car. found a leak in the brakes at the join between the metal pipes and the splitter by the pedals. how do i fix? i only just picked the car up.

[Edited on 13/4/08 by aka Keith]


MikeR - 13/4/08 at 05:36 PM

by "splitter by the pedals" do you mean a 'T' piece where it takes the pedal fluid and splits it to either side of the car at the front?

The simple answer (you don't want to hear) is to remake that union or worst, remake that section.

I've not done my brakes so this could be bad advice. I'd clean all around that area with kitchen roll. press the brakes once or twice and try to identify which union the fluid is coming from. I'd then give that union between 1/8 and a 1/4 turn. If it doesn't stop it (assuming its not lose to begin with) then its either a spilt pipe or bad end on the pipe.


fesycresy - 13/4/08 at 05:39 PM

The splitter or 'tee' piece you are talking about may have been overtightened. This may have caused it to splay open and would need a new one.

And the obvious one, is it tight ?

HTH


aka Keith - 13/4/08 at 05:41 PM

mike, it is the t piece to the rear. i think that the pipe is gone one of them. how does the metal pipe mate with the t?


aka Keith - 13/4/08 at 05:43 PM

quote:
Originally posted by fesycresy
The splitter or 'tee' piece you are talking about may have been overtightened. This may have caused it to splay open and would need a new one.

And the obvious one, is it tight ?

HTH
where do i get a new one from?


worX - 13/4/08 at 05:47 PM

This might not be what you are after but this is a prett good place to get this sort of thing from!

RALLY DESIGN

Steve


britishtrident - 13/4/08 at 05:59 PM

Tighten it up ! with decent 11mm opened ended or special brake pipe spanner.





If that dosen't work you need to get the flare re-made.

If you have to ask this kind of question are you really sure you should have bought such a specialist car.


rident]

[Edited on 13/4/08 by britishtrident]


aka Keith - 13/4/08 at 06:10 PM

ok,i have been back outside to look. the small copper pipe from the main cylinder to the splitter has gone as it enters the splitter. how is the pipe joined to its joining nut? is it a replace the pipe, nut, splitter or all three?


fesycresy - 13/4/08 at 06:19 PM

This is a flare:

Flare
Flare


Unfortunately, we can't tell you what to replace without seeing it.

As trident says, try nipping it up, then if that doesn't work, take it apart.


mark chandler - 13/4/08 at 06:32 PM

No such thing as an idiot question!

As above try nipping it up a little tighter, if that fails then if you can easily get to both ends remove and take to a motor factor to copy, only costs a few £££.

If you cannot easily remove, pipe to the rear as an example it is perfectly acceptable to have a join, this assumes you have a hand held flaring tool which I suspect is not the case here.

Regards Mark


fesycresy - 13/4/08 at 06:32 PM

Just to add, to be safe, I'd take the pipe off and take it to a motor factors for a new one. I think it's pretty obvious you haven't got a flare kit in your box !

Don't take chances with the brakes and if you are not sure, no matter how trivial, please ask.


aka Keith - 13/4/08 at 06:33 PM

fesycresy, that looks familiar. what is it called exactly so that i get a replacement. sorry for all the idiot questions.


aka Keith - 13/4/08 at 06:35 PM

quote:
Originally posted by fesycresy
Just to add, to be safe, I'd take the pipe off and take it to a motor factors for a new one. I think it's pretty obvious you haven't got a flare kit in your box !

Don't take chances with the brakes and if you are not sure, no matter how trivial, please ask.


dont worry mate .


fesycresy - 13/4/08 at 06:52 PM

It's just a flare. Take the pipe to the motor factors and they'll match it. No problems.

Be carefull when you take it apart to hold the tee piece, so you don't kink the other pipes (assuming it's not bolted to the chassis).

You'll have to take your rear calipers off to bleed as it looks like you've got and Indy and the bleed nipples face down as fitted to the car.


Litemoth - 13/4/08 at 06:54 PM

.....there'll be the 'bleeding' afterwards of course.......

If you're not sure about this brake stuff, I'd get someone whos more confident to help you out practically, it's not really a great area to learn the hard way.


Bluemoon - 14/4/08 at 08:43 AM

Might be worth getting some other locals over if your unsure, there is an Oxfordshire group that meet once a month do as search and U2U a few people that go I'm sure someone will give you a hand.. I would come out and help but I am to busy at the moment due to an impending house move..

Dan


aka Keith - 14/4/08 at 10:44 AM

Blue, I did ping a U2U to another builder in the areas "Rek" but I have not heard anything as yet. If nothing, then i will take it to the local Garage and see what they can do.
Cheers
Craig


Jubal - 14/4/08 at 12:15 PM

quote:
Originally posted by britishtridentIf you have to ask this kind of question are you really sure you should have bought such a specialist car.


Err, by that measure then only competent home mechanics should ever buy a kit car? My view is that you learn as you go on what's possible at home to maintain the car with limited tools by asking questions and weighing up the job. But if you don't fancy the job then you have to have built some support around you or the car's off the road.


David Jenkins - 14/4/08 at 12:31 PM

When I started my car I had done little more than basic maintenance on a car; I certainly had never changed brake pipes, let alone install a whole new system!

Of all the systems in a car, the brakes are probably one of the simplest - but it has to be done right, and done carefully.

As said above - try tightening it a bit (but be careful as it's easy to round off the hex on the connector). If that doesn't work take off the pipe and have a good look at the state of the flare - if it's dirty, mis-shapen, cracked or has a distinct ring around it then you need to think about replacing the pipe. This isn't difficult to do, especially if you take the old one to a decent motor factors who'll make you a new one - try to keep it in its original shape, so they can match it as far as possible.

A few things to watch - you will spill brake fluid, so make sure you've got something to catch it with. Best to wear gloves (latex ones are good, as long as you're not allergic to it) as the fluid is poisonous. It is also inflammable and will strip paint, so mind where it goes! A roll of kitchen towel or workshop equivalent is also useful for mopping up and cleaning.

If you have to replace the pipe, clean out the holes in the caliper and connector with a cotton bud if necessary (only necessary if rubbish has got in there). Fit the connector nuts by hand first - if they don't go in by hand there's something wrong. Only use the spanner once the nuts are started properly.

Finally you'll have to bleed the brakes - that depends on the system you've got in the car so you'll have to take advice. You will need a quantity of new brake fluid though. While you're at it you might as well replace all the brake fluid and bleed the whole system - it's not a hard job.

I'm sure someone will post if I've missed anything...

If you get hold of a Haynes manual for the donor car (Sierra?) you'll find a lot of helpful info. They also do a book on basic car maintenance that will tell you all about brake system maintenance - might be useful?

HTH,
David


aka Keith - 14/4/08 at 12:44 PM

Cheers David, thanks for the wise words.
Cheers
Craig

Again, this might sound a stupid question, but I have left a message with the previous owners as to what brake fluid they used, but no reply as yet. I know you cannot mix certain types, but is there an easy way of telling which type it is? or which type I should be using.

[Edited on 14/4/08 by aka Keith]


David Jenkins - 14/4/08 at 01:07 PM

The biggest rule is: don't be scared of it, just be careful.

When you've finished whatever you have to do, check for leaks while someone's got their full weight on the brake pedal. Don't accept anything other than zero leaks.

The brake pedal should feel firm under your foot; if it feels spongy, or the pedal moves too far, then you've still got air in the system. Keep bleeding until the pedal is firm.

After that, try the brakes out on the road - start gently close to home (in your drive initially!) and work up to full emergency stops on a quiet back-road.

If you make sure your brain is engaged at all times then it's just common sense.