I had a quick look under the rear of my friends MK Indy to evaluate a chassis set-up but it appeared you could not set the rear toe - is this correct
or am I missing something?
thanks for your help in advance.
PS what rate of springs are people using in a CEC application front and rear (Vauxhall 1600 16v engine is fitted)
would you need to change it /?
to make it right
you will have to shim it.
I have a problem with the rear toe on my Indy, any ideas on the best way to shim it? I'm not too keen on putting washers between the hub and upright; someone suggested slotting the wishbone brackets and welding a washer back on in the right place so as to effectively move the hole.
not adjustable but I'm not aware there's any toe in or out on my car. You could try flipping the lower wishbone over though I was told by MK when I got the kit that they were symmetrical, which they are (sat them on top of each other). There seems to have been some history that they were perhaps wrong in some way but having set up the suspension (not yet driven it) everything was in line.
You can allways make some sims. How do you know it is actualy wrong?
As Mr Wippy says the rear end gemometry can be imporved on but this has nothing to due with toe. From what I recall this requires the brakects to be
moved and you will not notice any differance on the road, and probably not even on the track unless your a pro.
Cheers
Dan
[Edited on 25/4/07 by Bluemoon]
quote:
Originally posted by dilley
to make it right![]()
you will have to shim it.
the rear toe is different side to side on my Indy one side is straight the other has toe out..... I can even see this by eye so mine needs adjusting
to make it handle.
I am Thinking of making the rear wishbone adjustable as shims will mean the wheel hub and upright will not mate up flush and thus more strain on the 4
bolts IMO.
What I would check is that the rear wheels are truly sitting level on the road and adjust the top wishbone nut to suit. I used a spirit level on the tyre, as it's too hard to tell just looking. Or you could place a level on the outside edge of the wheel rim. I found on my Falcon that setting the point that the rear lost grip to be controlled by the front toe and set it so I could drift sideways controlling the direction with the throttle, which I believe is how it's meant to be.
setting the camber shouldn't effect toe on the rear... I have already set the camber anyhow so that I can possition the wheelarches.
Unless you have done a string box most will be unaware what the rear toe is.
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
What I would check is that the rear wheels are truly sitting level on the road and adjust the top wishbone nut to suit. I used a spirit level on the tyre, as it's too hard to tell just looking. Or you could place a level on the outside edge of the wheel rim. I found on my Falcon that setting the point that the rear lost grip to be controlled by the front toe and set it so I could drift sideways controlling the direction with the throttle, which I believe is how it's meant to be.
Sorry I have no meqasurements, the bloke who set my car up used washers,this is fine, It needs to be done properly,mine now looks like the drivers rear wheel is toeing out bad but it could be the arch.
oh now your ringing bells, washers behind the rear hub and the upright? I do remember something about that.
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
oh now your ringing bells, washers behind the rear hub and the upright? I do remember something about that.
i always wanted to modify one like the mazda mx5 rear ends are its very adjustable and simple some usefull info on setup HERE
The reason I need to adjust my toe is that both wheels are toed about 0.5 degree in the SAME direction (ie the rear end is trying to crab to the
right).
Maybe I could try flipping the lower wishbone over?
The reason I was asking is that we are going to do a wheel alignment on the car using a 4 wheel infra red system that measures to 0.2mm accuracy.
Any toe out on the rear is very bad and will make the car handle like a pig!
Ideally I would like 30 minutes of toe-in on the rear with the thrust line central.
At least I know now it's not adjustable and wasn't missing the obvious - thanks for the help.
Make a string box around the car and you can measure everything.
quote:
Originally posted by dilley
Make a string box around the car and you can measure everything.