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how to mount MK fuel tank?
Mave - 10/4/05 at 05:06 PM

Can anyone advise on the following; today I wanted to mount the fuel tank. But I can't figure out where to mount the straps on the rear of the car. I can't put them on the rear of the rear tube, because the rear panel will be there, right?
I've seen a pictures, where it looks like it is mounted by bolting through the little straps which are welded on the sides. That doesn't give me a good feeling, because they will be under a fair bit of strain, and when they break, they will rip the whole tank open.

So, any suggestions?

Marcel


DEAN C. - 10/4/05 at 06:06 PM

Lets put things in perspective,if you get hit up the rear you will definately damage the tank.If you have the tank strapped rather than bolted you are slightly less likely to rupture the tank.
But lets be right you are not driving a super safe euro saloon car with airbags and side impact protection ,but you are a lot better off than a big bike in a collision.
If its a big impact good luck,you'll need it.
You can mount your staps into the box section at the front using rivnuts and through the flat bar at the rear of the tank.Thats what i have done.


tks - 10/4/05 at 07:39 PM

i have made mine from stainlees steel

so i have just welded it with 4 small weld 1,5 cm to the chasis...

in a collision i hope they brake....

and that's it..

but i don't wanna have a collision in the back wy??

what was the famous story of our main brand donor supplier with a model of them??(ford)

(had also the fuel tank in the back..)

with allot of deaths....

i think i'm gonna make a cover of some material..that in case the hell opens..

all the fuel is not spraying in a round but that it will staywhere it came from.....

imagine..a collision and the fuel is hitting you...and then the escapes...

TKS


Mave - 10/4/05 at 08:16 PM

I wasn't even refering to a collision. My fear is that the straps on the side will tear off due to fatigue, and rip the tank open.
How did you bolt it to the flat strips? The tank sits right on top of it right? So how did you put the bolt so the tank doesn't sit on top of it? Do you have a picture?

Thanks.


dblissett - 10/4/05 at 08:28 PM

i thought that the tank had to be held down firmley but it must have some form of give because as the fuel sloshes around in the tank it puts a large load on the mountings and if they a ridged it will cause the mounting to crack and fail
thats why we use the rubber under the straps
so welding it in place might not last very long
cheers dave


Hellfire - 10/4/05 at 10:13 PM

Funnily enough we have just done that very task. We have used aluminium straps with rubber around to hold in place. We are going to put rubber "bumpers" on the sides to stop side movement if there should be any.

ClIcK mE

We used the side plates which were welded to the sides of the tank and bolted to the chassis, we experienced no problem this wau either.

HTH


Avoneer - 10/4/05 at 10:41 PM

I thought the rubber was to insulate it from static?
Pat...


DEAN C. - 10/4/05 at 10:48 PM

Anything held with a strap will move a little,so its really for both wear and static, I presume.


Hellfire - 10/4/05 at 11:34 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
I thought the rubber was to insulate it from static?
Pat...


Regarding insulation - the fuel tank should not be insulated from static as the first chance it gets to earth could be a nice healthy static spark to the fuel pump nozzle. That should keep you nice and warm eh The fuel tank should be earthed, bonded or strapped to the chassis to prevent static build up. Putting rubber on it will as you say isolate it, but is that what you want? I dont seem to think it is.... or am I wrong?


greggors84 - 10/4/05 at 11:53 PM

But surely the fuel filler will be insulated by the fuel hose connecting it to the tank. I guess it depends you you fill your tank, but i guess most people are using a fuel filler with a rubber hose.


tks - 11/4/05 at 08:22 AM

to be able to generate a spark

you will have to accumulate energie....

like a capacitor does..and a battery...etc.

if you isolate you tank the 1 wire level meter will not work.. and offcourse it can become a battery...

i don't think that the petrol has that amount of energie to brake a couple of weld..to do that you need to twist..

and thats what a colision does..

TKS


Mave - 11/4/05 at 03:35 PM

@ Hellfire; you have the veritcal stays behind your tank; I don't. So your solution won't work for me... (but it looks as solid as I want it too!)

@ tks; I'm not worried about the dynamic loads as such, but fatigue WILL eventually lead to a failure. I'm pretty sure of that. I won't say it will be within 5 years, but who knows.

So the question remains; how did people mount the MK fuel tank? Please advise!


ReMan - 11/4/05 at 06:03 PM

So the question remains; how did people mount the MK fuel tank? Please advise!




See pics, (sorry cant do muliple pics on one post)
Sitting on rubber feet to take out minor out of squareness, aluminium strap over rubber strips and a rubber stop at either side to prevent lateral movement.
Just need a rubber pipe now and it will be completely insulated Rescued attachment 135_3521.jpg
Rescued attachment 135_3521.jpg


ReMan - 11/4/05 at 06:04 PM

You can just see the sideways stops Rescued attachment kklup.jpg
Rescued attachment kklup.jpg


greggors84 - 11/4/05 at 11:04 PM

Damn thats a shiny looking chassis! I couldnt help scratching mine when putting all the different bits in, Going to have to go round and touch all the bits up.


phoenix70 - 12/4/05 at 12:30 AM

Out of Interest, where did you get the rubber feet and strip?


ReMan - 12/4/05 at 08:57 PM

I believe they are tank mounting rubbers for an old BSA or Triumph. Got them at an Autojumble, same with the side stops. They have a sort of rubber barb so you push them in the hole and they dont fall out , if you know what I mean. Might elsewise have used rubber doorstops and bolted them on.


macspeedy - 13/4/05 at 04:21 PM

The method we used was to bolt 2" square aluminium to the tank support bars, then bend up straps that went through the square tube around the tank and joined at the top with adjustable over centre locking catches.. this means we can remove the tank and it also lifts the tank slightly to allow easy access to underneath the straps are made from aluminium and to cusion that we used neoprene closed cell stick on foam


Crazy Jay - 14/4/05 at 11:14 AM

We used a bike tube for the rubber
jus outta interest, why do mk give a hose that connects the fuel cap to the tank, but 3 inches too short?? Anyone else had this problem? Where did u get ur hose from?? Cheers


ReMan - 14/4/05 at 11:25 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Crazy Jay
We used a bike tube for the rubber
jus outta interest, why do mk give a hose that connects the fuel cap to the tank, but 3 inches too short?? Anyone else had this problem? Where did u get ur hose from?? Cheers


Did`nt know MK gave you any rubber hose for the tank, short or not, presumably coz they dont know where your going to put the filler?
Does the hose bend easily enough , if you wanted the filler on the back panel, or do you have to get a bend made in metal tube?


Mave - 14/4/05 at 03:13 PM

MacSpeedy; that's an idea. Maybe I'll try something based on that.

Reman; I like your solution too, but the rear of my tank is practically in line with the rear of the lower tube, so I can never get a bolt in there.


ReMan - 14/4/05 at 09:36 PM

Through choice, because it saves a lot of messing, I would go for the welded on mounts that bolt to the diagonals......


Hellfire - 18/4/05 at 09:18 AM

quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
Through choice, because it saves a lot of messing, I would go for the welded on mounts that bolt to the diagonals......


Is it worth the extra cost?


ReMan - 18/4/05 at 09:42 PM

Is it worth the extra cost?



Nobody said they cost any extra

Would probabbly even out with cost of rubbers and straps though?


greggors84 - 20/4/05 at 06:02 PM

I got some fuel pipe from ATL, its not cheap though. It was handy as they arnt far from where i work.