Am I right in thinking that the propshaft centre bearing mounting, to the footwell/bulkhead plate needs some spacers?
Searched the archive and can`t find anything but got a suspicion i`ve sen or read this somewhere.
Colin

It does - ours was 28.5mm (3x 3/8"

On our website.... somewhere!

ATB

Thanks mate.
Thought i`d seen it on yours too but couldnt find it.
Is that an official MK 28.5 or a best fit 28.5 so each one is different?
What did you make it from, alloy plate or what?
Cheers

I packed mine out with 3mm alloy untill i got the best angle through the tunnel ( as square as possible in my opinion)

Thanks all.
I think i`ve got enough to go on now
Colin

quote:

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Originally posted by Jasalarms
I packed mine out with 3mm alloy untill i got the best angle through the tunnel ( as square as possible in my opinion)

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I thought that the idea was to get as straigty as possible to minimise stress, or is it to minimise vibration?
Help

There you go...





HTH

Ta

Won't the ali tunnel panel flex?
Pat...

S`not ali!
Its solid steel!

Ahhh, is that the curved end of the footwell that comes on the MK chassis?
I've got a book chassis so may be best if I panel the top quarter of the tunnel (drives side) in steel - how thick is the MK stuff and how far from the end of the diff is the prop joint roughly?
Cheers,
Pat...

Hellfire:

Did you mount your prop so it is as straight as possible to the engine, then slightly slant it towards the diff?

Or did you kind of average the angles and make the prop straightest overall?

--Chris

The following describes how I installed my prop shaft, which does not vibrate.

If this seems wrong I would be interested to know how is should be done!

I ran the engine & center bearing UJ at 7 degrees with the diff UJ at around 1 degree. The angle I describe is the summation of the angles in the vertical & horizontal plane

The UJ's must be run at a slight angle, or they will wear out rapidly, I believe 1 degree is required.

The aim of a prop shaft instalation is to equal out all the UJ angles. to avoid "flick" i.e. if the joint on the engine is at 7 degrees then the second should be 7 degrees.

Having said all this when I looked at the instalation it looked right. I just worked out because I did not want to trust my gut feeling


Hope this is of some help

James

If you dont put a bit of articulation on the bearings you get what is called brinelling. Instead of the balls or rollers rolling correctly in the raceways they dont move as fast as the raceway and effectively slide. The severity of this could cause a flat spot which will rapidly wear out the surfaces, cause noise and vibration etc. Excessive articulation will also promote rapid wear in a plain bearing. I have been working on an automotive project that required 0.4deg of articulation which required a specially designed bearing to cope with it.

quote:

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Originally posted by Avoneer
Ahhh, is that the curved end of the footwell that comes on the MK chassis?
I've got a book chassis so may be best if I panel the top quarter of the tunnel (drives side) in steel - how thick is the MK stuff and how far from the end of the diff is the prop joint roughly?
Cheers,
Pat...

---

quote:

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Originally posted by ReMan

quote:

---

Originally posted by Avoneer
Ahhh, is that the curved end of the footwell that comes on the MK chassis?
I've got a book chassis so may be best if I panel the top quarter of the tunnel (drives side) in steel - how thick is the MK stuff and how far from the end of the diff is the prop joint roughly?
Cheers,
Pat...

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Its 3mm steel and about 3ft, notice my dexterity in using both metric and imperial units

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Cheers,
So it does bolt to that metal footwell end plate then (just to clarify)
Pat...

Yes, like Hellfires pics, above.
If I was doing it myself I think i`d like to extend the plates even further down the tunnel, for a bit of added uj protection!
If you want another pic let me know.

Any pics would be great as I am at the finishing stages of my chassis and anything that will help my blade installation before the chassis is blasted and painted will be great.
Thanks,
Pat..

See this one and futwell1 in my archive.
As I menrtioned previously, if I was building my own chassis, I might extend the plate even further back down the tunnel to shroud the UJ a bit more.
Rescued attachment fwell2.jpg

Cheers.
I'll take my plate all the way back to the upright.
Pat...