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MK INDY Propshaft Flange H
ReMan - 22/3/12 at 09:46 PM

Following on from the first stage of pulling it apart
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=167919

And the good fortune of the prop not letting go, I need to insert said Reverse box and split prps
As per the picture I have a small collection of props
prop1
prop1

Now I want to use the one in the top of the pic as it's a TRT, but it has the wrong flange on one end, wheras the one below has the right one
Is it a DIY job to remove and swap these, I'm not sure how they come apart, even if I pull the clips off?

Hopefully then a combination of the TRT = one of the smaller ones and the Rev box will fit...........


mark chandler - 22/3/12 at 10:16 PM

If you remove the clips you can press the spider out using 1/2" sockets either side.

Refit is the reverse, from a distant memory the spiders come in two sizes so have a good measure to ensure they are both the same size.

To shorten carefully grind out the weld where the tube joins the casting, cut into the weld and maybe ¼” deep, the cast bit is a plug into the tube, you should then be able to tap it off.

Cut the tube to the correct length then either weld back yourself (do a good job and keep it aligned) or send it correctly sized to get a specialist to do this.

This lot are meant to be very good and fairly priced http://www.autoprop-uk.co.uk/

Regards Mark


daviep - 22/3/12 at 10:59 PM

As mark says remove the circlips, to strip the joint it's quite simple if you just want to swap the flanges.

1: Only remove the circlips from the flange side of the joint.
2: Open your vice jaws just far enough that the bearing cap will fit through
3: Place the flange on the vice so that it is supported either side of the bearing - if you're right handed you'll probably be holding the rest of the shaft with your left hand.
4: Using a copper mallet give the shaft a couple of good licks as close to the joint as you can - the cross should drive the bearing cap out - stop when the cross bottoms out in the flange yoke - the cap won't come all the way out
5: Rotate the shaft 180 degrees and repeat
6: Use vice or pliers to grip the bearing cap and pull / work it out - be careful not to squeeze the caps too hard they're very thin also be careful not to loose any rollers
7: Once the caps are out the cross can be removed from the yoke - you might get the cross out with only one cap removed and the other pushed back

Do this for both joints - keep the caps with the cross they are removed from.

Rebuilding is simply a case of reversing the process

1: Fit cross inside yoke
2: Fit caps to either side - use thick grease to stick the rollers into the cap and be very careful not to disturb any rollers when the cross enters the cap
3: Press one cap all the way in and fit circlip
4: Press 2nd cap home until circlip can be fitted - be very careful in case any rollers have been dislodged and are trapped between the cross and the base of the cap
5: Fit circlip
6: Knock end caps against circlips using the same technique used to remove them.
7: Joint should feel smooth and reasonably free

Cheers
Davie

[Edited on 22/3/12 by daviep]


ReMan - 22/3/12 at 11:23 PM

Cheers both.
I'll definatly give that a go tmorrow/over the weekend


yellowcab - 23/3/12 at 12:28 AM

hopefully you'll have some help...?