oadamo
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| posted on 18/9/07 at 07:03 PM |
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chassis triangulation
hi iam building a chassis but icant make my mind up about the triangulation. so can you help me out. iam making it out of 25x25x1mm box to keep it as
light as possible. soz about the crap drawing lol.
adam
this is an outline of the chassis
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TGR-ECOSSE
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| posted on 18/9/07 at 07:08 PM |
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Have you seen this?
There is a chassis idea in it
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blakep82
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| posted on 18/9/07 at 07:15 PM |
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something like this maybe?
 
Description
sorry, have to admit, i don't entirely undersand your drawing
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oadamo
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| posted on 18/9/07 at 07:32 PM |
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ive just lost a page full from not logging in  but iam making my own version of this but i want to see how light i can make it but still safe.
adam
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andyps
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| posted on 18/9/07 at 07:36 PM |
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That one doesn't have any triangulation, just some lovely carbon fibre, and a pretty big price tag.
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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blakep82
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| posted on 18/9/07 at 07:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andyps
That one doesn't have any triangulation, just some lovely carbon fibre, and a pretty big price tag.
yeah, i was thinking that too...
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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oadamo
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| posted on 18/9/07 at 07:41 PM |
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lol iam making the locost version. with alloy side panels the tub bit that you sit in and carbon fiber outer panels.
adam
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JoelP
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| posted on 18/9/07 at 10:53 PM |
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id say you start diagram isnt quite right. You should approach from the angle of sorting all your 'points' first, ie the 10 or so points
for the front suspension mounts, the engine mounts, seat mounts, diff mounts etc. Once these points are located, link them by appropriate straight
lines where possible (ie not through you or the engine), then triangulate like in the piccy above. Use a thinner tube for triangulation, if its done
right it will be mostly loaded in tension and compression, no bending, so save weight and dont be shy of adding extra bars where ever you want to.
The standard locost chassis is far from perfect, but it still works. If you avoid glaring errors and weld it well you quite literally cannot go wrong.
Experience learned can be applied to future cars!
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iank
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| posted on 19/9/07 at 10:37 AM |
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Once more I'm going to suggest going to a model shop and buying lots of balsa wood strips and a glue gun.
Stick together the main spaceframe shape you want (to scale i.e. if using 2.5mm square balsa make it 10:1) and add triangulation by twisting the model
gently and thinking about what would make it stiffer.
When you're happy make some wheels and skin it with thin card and keep it in the garage for inspiration when making the real thing
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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oadamo
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| posted on 20/9/07 at 04:48 PM |
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ive sorted it out now the designer guy at works gonna design it on his computer and stress test it to see how good it will be.
adam
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