CGILL
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 06:56 PM |
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Rover v8 std chassis
Probably been done to death, but I searched without much luck.
does the rv8 shoehorn into the std chassis? The reasons I would like to use std width are
1. I am a short arse
2. I have a Rv8 mated to toyota 5 speed sitting in the garage already
3. I have a 1375mm wide 3.36:1 live axle sitting there
4. I have front uprights to match the rear axle which are front steer and the rack is slightly narrower than the escort with longer arms and looks
favourable.
5. I have wet weather gear for an old 7 that rotted away to nothing that may be able to make fit.
Cheers.
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jobsagooden
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 07:16 PM |
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check out this thread. In theory the v8 should fit
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=66951
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craig1410
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 08:26 PM |
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Yep the RV8 should fit okay in a standard width chassis but it will be quite tight. I don't think you'd get away with cast iron manifolds
in the space available so reckon on some custom tubular headers. The other tricky bit will be getting the steering column threaded through the tubular
headers but again it should be do-able. You'll need a Rover P6 water pump and crankshaft pulley and will need to squeeze in an alternator
somewhere.
Think about adding 1" to your chassis height to avoid needing so much height in your bodywork and reckon on modifying your sump to gain some
extra clearance. Set the engine as far back as possible but watch your pedal space. I don't know the Toyota gearbox, hopefully it's
smaller than the Rover LT77.
Final bit of advice - don't fully weld any of your front chassis tubes until you have fitted all ancillaries to the engine. I could have saved
myself a lot of hassle with my alternator if I'd done this...
Good luck,
Craig.
[Edited on 28/5/2007 by craig1410]
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ed_crouch
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 09:29 PM |
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You can also buy a flowtech "remote filter" oil pump base plate.
Mocal also make one.
You may need one of these, as the oil filter sticks out in a stupid place on the Rover engine and will probably get in the way. The remote base plates
are much lower profile than fiting a sandwich plate, and have the added bonus of alleviating one weak spot of the Rover engine: the oil pressure
relief valve tends to wear and can stick OPEN if youre really unlucky, ditching all your oil pressure.
It should be noted that this isnt common, but be warned!!
The pisser is that both the flowtech and the Mocal plates are over 100 quid.
Ed.
I-iii-iii-iii-ts ME!
Hurrah.
www.wings-and-wheels.net
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ed_crouch
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 09:31 PM |
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Additionally, if its a crossbolt block, you'll need to have one of the crossbolts counterbored by a few millimetres, cos the remote plate will
foul it, apparently...
This is second hand info, cos I have a pre-crossbolt block!
Ed.
I-iii-iii-iii-ts ME!
Hurrah.
www.wings-and-wheels.net
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craig1410
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| posted on 28/5/07 at 09:54 PM |
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I just fitted a remote oil filter kit from Think Automotive and it seems to be fine. As long as you ensure the oil pressure relief valve is in good
order and keep the oil clean it should be okay.
HTH,
Craig.
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CGILL
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 03:08 AM |
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Thanks guys, might make the top tubes 25x50 to get the height & extra stiffness. I don't mind making up a bit of a winged sump, It's a
P6B engine. I have some SD1 pistons and heads through that I was going to fit, and a performer manifold with a small vac secondary holley. The ratios
should work out quite well and with some sticky - but not too big - feet, should be a lot of fun. I thought the pump might be a pain, will have to see
how it goes, fortunetly the rack has a bigger outward facing angle on the column than the escort and may help. I was thinking of bending up some
headers (probably double the time for the whole project), that will go over the top of J1 & J2 and drop down into a collector with a cut out along
the bottom of the bonnet line, this will hopefully keep the way clear for the steering column on the RHS, and a low hanging alternator on the LHS.
There should be a bit more clearance either side of the rear wheels, so I plan on using longer trailing arms on the bottom. My last toy was a triumph
herald chassis based 7, with a nissan L18 engine, which weighs more than the RV8, hopefully this will be a bit more dynamic.
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AdamR
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 08:12 AM |
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Good plan on the 25x50... someone else around here has done that.  
Couple of things to add:
You can't shorten the engine too much by chopping the sump, as the bellhousing is almost as low down. (At least the auto bellhousing is, which
I'm using with my T5 box). I'm going to chop an inch out of my sump and use the space to fit a heavy-guage sump guard. The whole lot will
hang circa 2" below the chassis rails which is lower than ideal.
Also the size of your box may mean you have very narrow footwells in a chassis built to book dimensions. I even thought it was looking tight in my +4
with T5, so I engineered a very cozy transmission tunnel around the box.
[Edited on 29/5/07 by AdamR]
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CGILL
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 08:33 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AdamR
Also the size of your box may mean you have very narrow footwells in a chassis built to book dimensions. I even thought it was looking tight in my +4
with T5, so I engineered a very cozy transmission tunnel around the box.
[Edited on 29/5/07 by AdamR]
Hmmm... yeah, it's a bit of a pain the starter and clutch release being on the rhs, might look at offsetting the engine and box to the lhs by an
inch or two... passenger doesn't need as much room, besides, the passenger should be too busy shreiking like a cheerleader to notice and
discomfort the toyota box is a big heavy lump, atleast it moves the cog backwards 
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CGILL
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 09:06 AM |
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[img]/upload/29-05-07_2054.jpg[/img]
Toyota W50 box with Rover bellhousing...
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NS Dev
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 11:42 AM |
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The exhausts will be the killer, but looks at the rover v8 tvr's.
We did it this way on my mate's opel manta that we put a rv8 into.
Everybody else crams the exhausts in and then knackers steering column uj's every time they give it a good thrash as they get cooked.
Route your tubular headers FORWARDS from each head, as a 4-2 or 4-2-1 each side (opinions vary here! ) and then link them just in front of the engine
on the passenger side under and just ahead of the front of the engine. If you put a loop into the pipe from the n/s you can get the lengths pretty
much equal, and get the benefits of cross-pulsing on a v8 manifold, which most on here don't as they can't run a link pipe with seperate
systems each side of the car.
Exit the system on the n/s just in front of the passenger footwell bulkhead.
Should look smart I reckon, but I've never had reason to do it!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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beelzebubs
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| posted on 22/6/08 at 12:33 AM |
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just thought I would post this picture properly from the previous page and ask what box the bellhousing came from?
 
Toyota W50 gearbox to RV8
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CGILL
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| posted on 23/6/08 at 05:32 AM |
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Sorry, NZ after market product...
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