speedyxjs
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| posted on 11/3/07 at 08:49 PM |
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Longer Chassis
Im thinking about starting my chassis in a few weeks and im a bit concerned my jag aj6 might not fit  .
I was thinking about extening the engine bay (chassis rails F1, F2 and G1, G2 in the old book and BR1, 2, 8 and 9 in the new book) but keeping the
front the same width.
Will i run into problems with strength or anything if i do this or has anyone else got any suggestions/advice. (using a different engine is NOT an
option  )
Cheers
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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907
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| posted on 11/3/07 at 09:00 PM |
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Hi
Draw out the book chassis on the build board.
Sit your engine/gearbox on the board.
Change to suit. That's what I did.
Paul G
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Ivan
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| posted on 11/3/07 at 09:09 PM |
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That's going to be a difficult one to answer - firstly a lot depends on how far back you can set the engine (normally limited by bell housing
width) so the wider the car the better. Also using a 6 weight distribution becomes a factor so you want the motor far back.
If you can get the motor far enough back then you shouldn't need to lengthen the engine bay - with my 4AGe motor theres more than enough room
for 2 more cylinders in front of the motor.
I think if you lengthen the bay G1 & G2 are the weak links and will need strengthening/supporting to carry the motor - also you should duplicate
member R on the other side
Have a look at papers published by Cymtrix on here at simple mods that significantly strengthen the chassis.
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James
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 09:05 AM |
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If you just lengthen those tubes then your suspension mounts will change position... not necessarily a good idea!
If you don't know what you're doing with suspension design I'd be careful with this... you don't want to trash the handling
after all!
HTH,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 12:47 PM |
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have you got any measurements for the engine and box ?
the volvo 6 cylinder fits in my chassis - it does come quite far foward tho , so i can measure it and see what we come up with .
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 02:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Volvorsport
have you got any measurements for the engine and box ?
the volvo 6 cylinder fits in my chassis - it does come quite far foward tho , so i can measure it and see what we come up with .
Have you got any pics?
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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907
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 05:54 PM |
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Is the g/box a Getrag?
Paul G
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 08:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
Is the g/box a Getrag?
Paul G
Yes it is .
The measurements of the engine are 34 Inch by 23 inch roughly
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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907
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 09:13 PM |
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Mmmm, That's a big lump.
I have a Getrag on a lotus engine.
My chassis is +4 wide. My foot wells are book so the extra 4" is in the g/box space.
By doing this the front end of the bell housing is level with the end of the foot well.
This leaves 35 1/2" ish to the front of the engine bay.
I can see now why you would want to make yours bigger.
If you don't follow this I'll take a photo.
Paul G
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 09:16 PM |
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I do follow but any pics would be great. Nothing beats visual aids    .
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 09:26 PM |
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I would make the upper and lower rails of 50x25mm 16g ERW and make the H tubes 50mm shorter. A small weight increase, but a massive sag resistance
added to the chassis - needed with a big tubby engine
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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907
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 09:46 PM |
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I like Mark's idea.
Perhaps bolt in triangulation after fitting the engine???
Pic below shows added 4" although I did it just to move the engine back for weight reasons.
Paul G
 
Rescued attachment lotus-pics-046-s.jpg
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 11:05 PM |
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sundays trip to santa pod .
should be some pics of use
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=94099
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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andyps
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| posted on 12/3/07 at 11:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
(using a different engine is NOT an option )
Cheers
Course it is an option - you should make it wider too and fit the Jag V12 in
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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britishtrident
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| posted on 13/3/07 at 11:02 AM |
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My main concern would be weight, much as I love Jag 6s the AJ6 engine was a heavy bit of kit.
For starters I would think 4inch wider 4inch longer + 1 (or 2) inch deeper + Cymitrics mods.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 13/3/07 at 11:05 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
I would make the upper and lower rails of 50x25mm 16g ERW and make the H tubes 50mm shorter. A small weight increase, but a massive sag resistance
added to the chassis - needed with a big tubby engine
Might be better to keep the H tubes book length, the extra depth will make the chassis stiffer in beam bending and give more room in the footwells.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 13/3/07 at 11:09 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andyps
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
(using a different engine is NOT an option )
Cheers
Course it is an option - you should make it wider too and fit the Jag V12 in
But real Jags have XK engines :-)
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 13/3/07 at 12:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
quote:
Originally posted by andyps
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
(using a different engine is NOT an option )
Cheers
Course it is an option - you should make it wider too and fit the Jag V12 in
But real Jags have XK engines :-)
2.9 aj6 is only for SVA. She will then be upgraded to 4.0 aj16 and SUPERCHARGED
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