SeaBass
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 06:43 PM |
|
|
Chassis Modification
Evening, I'm looking for some advice on modification of chassis tube G1...
I'm installing a Zetec with a Type 9 and the starter is going to foul this rail... What is the best option strength wise for modifying the
rail... I realise it will not be as strong as it would be straight!
The starter doesn't sit as far out as shown on the images but you get the picture...
Suggestions welcomed;
Many Thanks
[Edited on 17/1/07 by SeaBass]
|
|
|
|
|
Wadders
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 06:50 PM |
|
|
Would it miss if you just mirrored the tube on the other side of the engine? That would be your strongest option.
Al.
Originally posted by SeaBass
Evening, I'm looking for some advice on modification of chassis tube G1...
I'm installing a Zetec with a Type 9 and the starter is going to foul this rail... What is the best option strength wise for modifying the
rail... I realise it will not be as strong as it would be straight!
The starter doesn't sit as far out as shown on the images but you get the picture...
Suggestions welcomed;
Many Thanks
[Edited on 17/1/07 by SeaBass]
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 06:55 PM |
|
|
How much in the way is it? How much ground clearance do you have? If you have to move/alter the rail, try to make triangles everywhere.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
|
|
|
SeaBass
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 06:58 PM |
|
|
It's about 35mm in the way ie needs 35mm more clearance for the engine and box to sit low enough and central enough.
Wadders - don't understand your comment mate?? Talking about the bottom rails of the chassis not the engine bay strengtheners on the top...
Cheers
[Edited on 17/1/07 by SeaBass]
|
|
|
davew823
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 07:00 PM |
|
|
frame mod
Copy the Caterham design bottom tubes.
The lower tubes from a "Y" on both sides.
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 07:04 PM |
|
|
this is how I did it.
 
|
|
|
madteg
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 07:27 PM |
|
|
zetec engine fitment
I took a bit from around bulkhead as well lost a bit on passenger footwell, but engine is as far back as possable and engine fits under bonnet.
[Edited on 17/1/07 by madteg]
 
Rescued attachment 4P1010007.jpg
|
|
|
madteg
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 07:34 PM |
|
|
zetec
sorry wrong picture this one is better.
 
Rescued attachment 4P1010016.jpg
|
|
|
Micael
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 07:38 PM |
|
|
Why do you have the chassie in the kitchen?
Micael Moose Åman
Petrolhead and all around nice guy
"Don't leave the duck there. It's totally irresponsible. Put it on the swing, it'll have much more fun." //Sleep Talkin Man Dec 23
2009
|
|
|
madteg
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 07:45 PM |
|
|
chassis in kitchen
BECAUSE I CAN
|
|
|
ned
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 07:54 PM |
|
|
just move the engine slightly off centre, it's what i did with my vauxhall to get the engine further back. without a passenger it probably helps
balance the car a bit anyway and 35mm or 2 inches or so isn't going to make any noticable difference.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
|
|
|
SeaBass
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 08:02 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by ned
just move the engine slightly off centre, it's what i did with my vauxhall to get the engine further back. without a passenger it probably helps
balance the car a bit anyway and 35mm or 2 inches or so isn't going to make any noticable difference.
Ned.
A great idea but...
Moving the engine any further over will cause a multitude of problems with the type 9 fitting in the tunnel...
Here's the latest idea...
Cheers
[Edited on 17/1/07 by SeaBass]
|
|
|
Liam
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 08:19 PM |
|
|
Only proper way is a Y-brace as caterham do. In fact probably best on both sides if you cant get the engine bay tubes to meet the corner of the
footwell - not good to load the footwell end tube in bending like the book chassis does!
Liam
 
Rescued attachment enginebay.JPG
|
|
|
andrews_45
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 08:24 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by madteg
BECAUSE I CAN
Congratulations!!! You have won first prize in the 'Most laid back Mrs competition'
I'd get castrated for leaving a spanner on the side
|
|
|
3GEComponents
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 08:41 PM |
|
|
Yeah, respect madteg, i'm still baned from using the dish washer as a parts washer!
|
|
|
MikeR
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 11:46 PM |
|
|
I used to get away with murder, disassembling webber carbs while watching the tv, off ill for a few days so made a full size wooden chassis in the
lounge (i don't do nothing for long easily)
then again, it is my house and she did eventually leave me
|
|
|
scottc
|
| posted on 17/1/07 at 11:53 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
then again, it is my house and she did eventually leave me
|
|
|
Chippy
|
| posted on 18/1/07 at 12:08 AM |
|
|
I agree with Liam, that's by far the best way to overcome your problem. IMHO. Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 18/1/07 at 12:18 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
I agree with Liam, that's by far the best way to overcome your problem. IMHO. Ray
Only thing I don't like about it is because that tube is supporting the engine, you have a large bending force on the welded joint. Should be
ok if welding is up to scratch though.
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 18/1/07 at 08:27 AM |
|
|
yep, Liam's pic is the way to do it.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
|
