Avoneer
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:00 PM |
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New Blade cradle idea ?????
Hi,
Just dropped my engine in the car and been toying with a different cradle design to replace the standard Stuart Taylor agricultural one which is made
from 2x1 and is very bulky:
 
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Avoneer
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:03 PM |
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If I cut out the "R" tube (engine bay diagonal) and replace it with this A shaped frame, would that be ok?
All the engine mouting points would be in the same place.
I would drill directly through the 1" box and weld in a tube and bolt straight to the engine.
The beauty of this design is that with my shallow sump, there is nothing below the bottom chassis rail and I can panel the whole of the bottom of the
car.
Pat...
 
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Avoneer
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:04 PM |
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Another angle:
 
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Avoneer
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:07 PM |
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There will also be two mounts for the gearbox at the bottom.
Pat...
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erwe
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:12 PM |
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Very good, the more triangluation the more stiffnes you create.
Its a kind of Westfield solution.
Just make sure that you make a support at the underside of the V on the right hand side of the car.
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JoelP
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:14 PM |
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i like the look of it. You should probably try to add a bracing bar to the peak of the A, maybe diagonally down to another braced point. I've
never seen a bike engined car up close, do they use an engine mount on the nearside of the car, is it just the top and bottom of the box side? A
panelled bottom will get messy but will probably greatly help aerodynamics, and probably smooth air flow through the engine bay, provided it has
somewhere to leave!
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Avoneer
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:20 PM |
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Yeah, will stick a vertical in from the underneath of the peak of the A to the bottom chassis rail.
Pat...
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Avoneer
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:28 PM |
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I could always leave the diagonal bar that is already there in and cut the top of the A short and weld it to that bar???
Pat...
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JoelP
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:35 PM |
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better the first way IMHO, then theres only the one point to reinforce, not two! 
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JoelP
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:38 PM |
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this one is overkill, but fully braced 
 
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Avoneer
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:39 PM |
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But doing it this following way is almost the same as the ST one so wouldn't need any extra verticals:
 
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 08:39 PM |
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Hi Pat
As erwe said, its similar to the Westie solution which might be worth looking at, as that would add even better triangulation than your A frame. Have
a look at this link of my mate Ed's Megablade build.
Chris
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Avoneer
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 09:08 PM |
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Best I can do is this due to the steering shaft:
 
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 09:40 PM |
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Yep the column mount on top of the tunnel does limit this slightly, but dont forget that the X doesnt have to be truely straight / symmetrical, if you
look closely at the Westie one at least one of the crossmembers is bent where they cross to get it into the chassis corners.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 09:44 PM |
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Actually, looking at it again the blade one looks fairly straight, but the Busa version of the cradle does have a bend in the middle, as shown
here
[Edited on 5/1/06 by ChrisGamlin]
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Avoneer
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| posted on 5/1/06 at 10:12 PM |
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With the position of my steering column and the bike thermostat, I think my A is gonna be best and easiest with the removal of the normal engine bay
diagonal and a vertical brace.
Pat...
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Avoneer
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| posted on 6/1/06 at 08:30 PM |
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If the X was to sit on top of the chassis rather than in it, but bolted via plates, would this be ok bracing wise???
Pat...
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Avoneer
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| posted on 6/1/06 at 08:59 PM |
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Actually, looking favourite is copying the Stuart Taylor one, but in 1" box with different end mountings that drop onto flat plates like most
other manafacturers.
Pat...
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