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Author: Subject: Seat belt fixing point
wicket

posted on 16/3/05 at 02:07 PM Reply With Quote
Seat belt fixing point

I need some advice on the bottom outer fixing point.

The original idea is to use the lower trailing arm bolt which goes through the fully welded triangular plate, but this needs longer bolts, but the next bolt length up means the threaded section is not long enough and the shouldered bushes need boring out to fit the M12 bolts.

So I am considering drilling a new holes to use the correct size 11/16" UNF bolts in the position shown in the attached pictures, the outer trailing arm bracket is fully welded to the 1" sq section tube and to the panelled section.

Comments on the idea would be much appreciated.

Eric

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tom_loughlin

posted on 16/3/05 at 03:11 PM Reply With Quote
mine has a welded threaded tube sitting on the joint by the rear suspension mounts - hope the pic helps - if it attaches! Rescued attachment sb bracket.JPG
Rescued attachment sb bracket.JPG

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britishtrident

posted on 16/3/05 at 03:22 PM Reply With Quote
It will be pretty solid although it has the disadvantage of attaching the belt to the suspension but this is diificult to avoid Mark Allanson did some nicely engineered seat belt mounts with Mark's usual first class finish.

[Edited on 16/3/05 by britishtrident]

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Rob Lane

posted on 16/3/05 at 03:35 PM Reply With Quote
I seem to recall that it was an SVA fail to mount it under a suspension bolt.
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mangogrooveworkshop

posted on 16/3/05 at 03:46 PM Reply With Quote
If u take a hit to the suspention and it rips this bit off......mmmmm there goes your mounting.
For a couple of hours and ten pence worth of plate ....






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MikeR

posted on 16/3/05 at 04:45 PM Reply With Quote
where did you get the threaded tube from as i need 8 x 1" for mine.
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britishtrident

posted on 16/3/05 at 05:58 PM Reply With Quote
Marc Norden supplies threaded tube http://www.mnrltd.co.uk/Brackets.html

[Edited on 16/3/05 by britishtrident] Rescued attachment seat-belt-boss-weld-on.jpg
Rescued attachment seat-belt-boss-weld-on.jpg

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clbarclay

posted on 16/3/05 at 06:21 PM Reply With Quote
steel stock, a drill and tap

Heypresto threaded tube, just like the top front wishbones.


Then again you might have bought ready made wishbones and don't fancy the work just for a few seatbelt mounts.






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MikeR

posted on 16/3/05 at 07:02 PM Reply With Quote
yep i bought my wishbones a few years ago - in fact i think i was one of tritons first customers waaay before they teamed up with GTS.

although having checked the web site MNR's are 3.50 ...... heck i wasn't expecting to pay that much!!!! any one know of cheeper?

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clbarclay

posted on 16/3/05 at 08:02 PM Reply With Quote
You could weld a thick triangular plate into the corner, drill a hole in the plate use a nut+bolt to mount the seat belt.

This should work for the lower belt mounts.






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ned

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:19 PM Reply With Quote
I'm after some threaded tube for the top seatbelt mounts. Darren has them listed onthe gts site at 1.95, i have emailed him and am awaiting a reply. Unless there is a better option this is probably what i'll go for as i need the its in about a week as i plan on finishing the chassis over easter and will need all the bits to finish it off before powder coating..

Ned.





beware, I've got yellow skin

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MikeR

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:26 PM Reply With Quote
where abouts, i hunted and couldn't find them. £1.95 is what i'd expect to pay ..... so it looks like darren gets my money
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Triton

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:29 PM Reply With Quote
MikeR......Am i right in thinking you haven't finished it yet!!!.....you collected those in 2001 not long after i set up in that dodgy unit in Northampton.

Mark

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Triton

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:32 PM Reply With Quote
You will need 8 of those 20mm dia doodahs with 7/16 unf threads
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ned

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:35 PM Reply With Quote
in the chassis section, look hard as its a small 1 line bit with a broken pdf link and no picture, think it's just under the pedal boxes...

I only need 4 for the tops as i've done the bottom mounts out of triangles of 3mm plate..

Ned.





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MikeR

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:37 PM Reply With Quote


note the type of car i'm building - slowcost!

Organising the midlands meeting takes a lot of time + there are girls to chase and ..... errm .... well no i've not finished

but i will one day, hopefully going to redo the side triangulation of the engine bay to tie it up with the nearside diagonal i'll add which will then allow me to fit the caterham exhaust i've got.......

then its seat belt mounts,weld in the rad mounts i've had made for a year (although i'll probably remake them), make my fuel tank, get NS DEV to sort out my roll bar, paint it, wire it up, redo lots and ..... ooh, make my brakes and ... and ... etc etc

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MikeR

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ned
in the chassis section, look hard as its a small 1 line bit with a broken pdf link and no picture, think it's just under the pedal boxes...
Ned.


Found it, but they are 2.95 not 1.95 oh well...

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ned

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:40 PM Reply With Quote
oops! sorry, at least they are slighlty cheaper than mnr's..

maybe darren can do us a bulk discount lol

unless anyone else out htere would be willing to supply some suitable threaded tube for a cheaper but reasonable remuneration?

Ned.





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Triton

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:42 PM Reply With Quote
3mm plate with 7/16 unf full nuts (unplated)welded on then but won't look as neat unless you get fancy with the brackets especially for the ones on show.
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ned

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:46 PM Reply With Quote
i was gonna use threaded tube to try and get a bit of extra height to make sure the required seat base to harness height is correct for sva.

the plate and nut idea is a good one (though i only have nylocks which will melt during welding!) as it could be hidden by a tonneau style boot cover, will have to see.

Thanks Mark..





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Triton

posted on 16/3/05 at 10:52 PM Reply With Quote
Make a channel section with a 7/16unf clearance hole....shape it so it looks like it was thought about then weld that on.
You shouldn't have to raise the mounts if you have low seats....besides taking the mounts too high has all sorts of other problems.

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MikeR

posted on 16/3/05 at 11:00 PM Reply With Quote
I remember a guy years ago raised his mounts. The birmingham test centre made him brace the mount as it was adding a bending motion onto the top rail.
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britishtrident

posted on 17/3/05 at 08:29 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by clbarclay
steel stock, a drill and tap

Heypresto threaded tube, just like the top front wishbones.


Then again you might have bought ready made wishbones and don't fancy the work just for a few seatbelt mounts.



Rather you than me centre drilling round bar on a drill press --- a lathe is really the tool for the job likewise the lathe chuck makes tapping it much easier.

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britishtrident

posted on 17/3/05 at 08:38 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
I remember a guy years ago raised his mounts. The birmingham test centre made him brace the mount as it was adding a bending motion onto the top rail.


If I was an SVA inspector I wouldn't pass the raised mount shown in edition2 of the book,
With seat belt mounts the way I look at if it dosen't look strong enough to attach a tow rope to without causing damage it is nowhere near strong enough for a seat belt anchorage.

I am using a Westfield style "camel hump" seat belt mount --- member "O" is made of 25x25x2 with the hump also made of similar material. If starting a fresh I would use 30x30x2 and make the chassis 25mm deeper front and rear.

[Edited on 17/3/05 by britishtrident]

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MikeR

posted on 17/3/05 at 08:40 AM Reply With Quote
whats the westfield camel hump - have you got any pictures?
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