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Author: Subject: Removable tube R
ned

posted on 21/7/04 at 09:56 AM Reply With Quote
Removable tube R

Having just spent the last half an hour reading through old posts on the subject of tube R nobody seems to have made them removable. I have positioned my engine quite far back in the chassis and having not fitted all the ancillaries yet think it would make getting the engine in and out much easier if the r tubes were removable. Something like shock mount brackets made of 3mm plate with an m12 bolt securing the r tube in place. I am thinking of doing this on both sides of the engine to increase stiffness in the chassis as per cymtriks previous FEA.

Anyone done this already, got any pics or comments/suggestions. I am aware of the y-brace idea, but would rather have the benefit of the full r tubes in the chassis. I want to run the exhaust out through the bonnet, so the r tube on the passenger side shouldn't get in the way here. I may have to move or fit a small alternator anyway to clear the steering column as I know it's been an issue on some other builds using the same engine as me.

cheers all,

Ned.





beware, I've got yellow skin

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James

posted on 21/7/04 at 10:10 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ned
think it would make getting the engine in and out much easier


I know you can't trust that GM rubbish like you can my trusty Pinto ( ) but how often do you intend to remove/replace the engine?
It's not that hard to get the engine in, whilst this seems like added hassle (not much hassle but some). Also, presumably there will be some 'give' in a bolted tube so will that reduce the benefits if having it in the first place?

Just a thought!

James

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craig1410

posted on 21/7/04 at 12:05 PM Reply With Quote
I'd go for two Y braces if I was doing it all over again.
Cheers,
Craig.

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locoboy

posted on 21/7/04 at 12:48 PM Reply With Quote
i remember reading a reply maybe by rorty or sid regarding removable braces and they were saying that in order to be effective they would have to be machined to the highest standards to ensure a really tight between the bolt and the hole or the hole and a dowel. So any advantage gained by having removable braces may be lost in torsional rigidity.

....................but im just the messenger remember!





ATB
Locoboy

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Dale

posted on 21/7/04 at 03:22 PM Reply With Quote
I plan on trying to put in removable braces in the engine compartment as the turbo and intakes take alot of space. I figure it will have to bolted in couple of places at each end to get a tight fit. I figure it may end up as a type of cradle over the engine.
Dale

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derf

posted on 21/7/04 at 03:35 PM Reply With Quote
You could always have the removable tube adjustable with opposite threaded heim joints at each end, that way you can adjust the level of tension or compression. I use them on all my suspension mount points, and It is fully adjustable.


Rear axle mounted
Rear axle mounted

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drmike54

posted on 21/7/04 at 03:52 PM Reply With Quote
Derf

Are those tubes locating your rear axle Swedged Steel Sleeves tubes like stock cars use? If they are what is the size and how long are they?
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madforfishing

posted on 21/7/04 at 05:56 PM Reply With Quote
Just for 'thinking outside of the box'...does the engine HAVE to come out through the top?
Has anyone tried removable engine mounts fixed to the chassis with hefty bolts?
That way you could support your lump and lift the front of the car up and over. Never having to remove tube 'R'. In fact put another one in across the other diagonal.
Or am I talking b0110x?

[Edited on 21/7/04 by madforfishing]






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stephen_gusterson

posted on 21/7/04 at 06:02 PM Reply With Quote
I can guarantee whatever one said, the other would have had the exact opposite opinion!

atb

steve



quote:
Originally posted by colmaccoll
i remember reading a reply maybe by rorty or sid regarding removable braces and they were saying that in order to be effective they would have to be machined to the highest standards to ensure a really tight between the bolt and the hole or the hole and a dowel. So any advantage gained by having removable braces may be lost in torsional rigidity.

....................but im just the messenger remember!







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derf

posted on 22/7/04 at 12:55 AM Reply With Quote
actually they are from circle track dirt cars, all aluminum, 5/8" heim joints, opposite threads, the aluminum arms are 11" and the panard rod is 36"
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locost_bryan

posted on 22/7/04 at 03:25 AM Reply With Quote
sounds like a FWD strut brace, or the diff and trans braces that Mazda added to later MX5s to increase the torsional rigidity.

As long as it bolts rigidly, it should work. Derfs rose joint approach should work fine, or add a u-channel for the R tube to sit in at each end, and 2 bolts through the R tube and both sides of the u-channel (at each end).





Bryan Miller
Auckland NZ

Bruce McLaren - "Where's my F1 car?"
John Cooper - "In that rack of tubes, son"

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thekafer

posted on 22/7/04 at 03:30 AM Reply With Quote
Yes! I have seen this done! On a seven noless! It was 4 years ago at an autocross a friend and I were at. At the time I was into "other" kit cars and did'nt pay much attention to sevens. I remember them slipping a modified pallet jack under the car and three guys lifting the car off the engine and tranny!!It only took seconds so everything must have had quick disconnects. The engine was toast so it never went back in but it was still cool. My friend says that guy in the black seven (it's a Birkin) still races around here. I thought it was the coolest thing...

Has anyone tried removable engine mounts fixed to the chassis with hefty bolts?
That way you could support your lump and lift the front of the car up and over. Never having to remove tube 'R'. In fact put another one in across the other diagonal.
Or am I talking b0110x?

[Edited on 21/7/04 by madforfishing]






I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal labotomy...

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Peteff

posted on 22/7/04 at 10:50 AM Reply With Quote
I built my chassis for the pinto and found the R tube was in the way of the alternator so I fitted it to the other side of the engine bay. If I take the alternator and engine mounts off I can lower it to the ground but it's easier to leave it connected to the gearbox and hoist it all out at once.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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James

posted on 22/7/04 at 01:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
so I fitted it to the other side of the engine bay.


Do you mean you moved the tube to the other side or the alternator?

Cheers,

James

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