maartenromijn
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:15 PM |
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Is it OK to weld mt75 mount to chassis (pic)
 
mt75 mounting
Is it OK to weld the piece in the picture on the left underneith the chassis? Or should I look for bolting options?
Normally I prefer bolting because it is easier if the rubber needs to be exchanged.
Unfortunately I cannot get the existing hole to line up with something.
Another option would be to make a strip with welded nut to use instead of the part on the right. Then weld a strip underneith the chassis and use a
Land Rover engine mount.
Any ideas?
[Edited on 25/8/09 by maartenromijn]
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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big_wasa
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:22 PM |
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Ive welded my mount in. Now its all panelled its a pain to get the engine and box in and out.
 
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dmac
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:23 PM |
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Weld on some plates that will line up with the holes.
Duncan
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Antnicuk
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:23 PM |
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i would prefer to bolt anything like that just for ease in the future. You may find that if its welded it may be in the way at some point in the
future. When i changed my clutch i dropped the box out of the bottom of the tunnel which you wouldnt be able to to.
600 BHP per ton, Stylus Brought back from the dead! Turbo Rotary Powered!
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maartenromijn
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Ive welded my mount in. Now its all panelled its a pain to get the engine and box in and out.
What part is the rubber piece?
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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maartenromijn
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dmac
Weld on some plates that will line up with the holes.
Duncan
Duncan, I would have to re-route the lower tranny tunnel sections.
Would it be OK to bolt through the hollow sections instead? I would not prefer that because of weakening the construction AND water ingress causing
rust.
mt75 is a tight fit in standard locost....
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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big_wasa
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:33 PM |
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I think its a diesel landrover heavy duty mount. Ive used them for the engine aswell.
A strip of steel 10mm thick welded to a square of metal 6mm thick.
It was then drilled and tapped to take the m10 stud and welded on top.
Next time I take the engine out I will modify it so that the plate can bolt in.
Its so much harder to swing the engine and box over it.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:46 PM |
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Chep and very solid and sell for £2.75 new over here.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:47 PM |
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They do stop the engine and box from moving about which is good as you say there is very little room.
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dmac
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by maartenromijn
quote:
Originally posted by dmac
Weld on some plates that will line up with the holes.
Duncan
Duncan, I would have to re-route the lower tranny tunnel sections.
Would it be OK to bolt through the hollow sections instead? I would not prefer that because of weakening the construction AND water ingress causing
rust.
mt75 is a tight fit in standard locost....
If you're going to bolt through the chassis tubes I would weld on some re-enforcing plates to make up for the lost strength and use sealant
around the bolts/washers to try to keep the water out.
Looking at your pic again, could you mount two strips, one in front and one to the rear of the current mounting holes and then re-drill the mounting
plate in front and to the rear of the rubber bush (it looks like there might be enough room and you would probably have to trim the existing holes
off). The two strips could then be bolted to small welded plates on the outsides of the tunnel (IE inside your footwell area)
It may be complex but anything would be better than welding it in.
Duncan
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big_wasa
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 08:54 PM |
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You may also be interested in how I modified the the rev switch ? I also had to chop of the extra casting lumps that stick out. Gives you an extra
20mm
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maartenromijn
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 09:20 PM |
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quote:
If you're going to bolt through the chassis tubes I would weld on some re-enforcing plates to make up for the lost strength and use sealant
around the bolts/washers to try to keep the water out.
Looking at your pic again, could you mount two strips, one in front and one to the rear of the current mounting holes and then re-drill the mounting
plate in front and to the rear of the rubber bush (it looks like there might be enough room and you would probably have to trim the existing holes
off). The two strips could then be bolted to small welded plates on the outsides of the tunnel (IE inside your footwell area)
It may be complex but anything would be better than welding it in.
Duncan
As pointed out by big_wasa, you're right I should not weld this. Thanks for your ideas.
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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maartenromijn
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 09:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
You may also be interested in how I modified the the rev switch ? I also had to chop of the extra casting lumps that stick out. Gives you an extra
20mm
I hadn't identified the switch as a problem yet. Thanks for the tip.
The lumps were the first to encounter my vicious angle grinder 
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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BenB
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| posted on 25/8/09 at 09:57 PM |
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You can bolt through the chassis tube but worth lining them with a bit of tube of suitable size to
a) seal them from water ingress
b) add some lost strength
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coozer
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| posted on 26/8/09 at 10:28 AM |
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Put a block of ali in and solid mount it.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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