Jasongray5
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| posted on 1/6/09 at 08:46 PM |
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Enamel paint?
Is enamel paint anygood? For painting my chassis wishbones, roll bar everything metal realy? We use it on tractors and farm machinery all the time and
its realy robust even without primer!
What do we think?
How hard can it be?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33261515@N03/sets/72157611049241239/
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blakep82
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| posted on 1/6/09 at 08:48 PM |
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never had any experience of it, but if its good enough for farm machines, it should be good for wishbones etc as in non chip
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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mad4x4
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| posted on 1/6/09 at 08:49 PM |
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why not get them powder coated ?
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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Jasongray5
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| posted on 1/6/09 at 08:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mad4x4
why not get them powder coated ?
That costs monies!!! Plus enamel paint gives more or less a similar finish and Ive got loads of new holland blue paint, and no new holland tractors...
(hence colour of my boat)
 
THE beasty boat
[Edited on 1/6/09 by Jasongray5]
How hard can it be?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33261515@N03/sets/72157611049241239/
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joolsmi16
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| posted on 1/6/09 at 09:49 PM |
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paint
What every you do. Do not use this sh*t http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm
I spent £118 on it sprayed 4 coats left to cure for 7 weeks and it scratches and comes away from the chassis!!!! sent all week clear coating hoping
to protect it.
If I have my time again, zinc or etch primer then chassis black paint..
Jools
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RK
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| posted on 1/6/09 at 10:57 PM |
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I have had no luck whatsoever using enamel. If you can do it, good for you, but my experience has been a big negative. Should have had my chassis and
wishbones powdercoated, but at the time, I was, as Mark Evans says, a cheap git.
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cloudy
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| posted on 2/6/09 at 12:10 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by joolsmi16
What every you do. Do not use this sh*t http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm
I spent £118 on it sprayed 4 coats left to cure for 7 weeks and it scratches and comes away from the chassis!!!! sent all week clear coating hoping
to protect it.
If I have my time again, zinc or etch primer then chassis black paint..
Jools
R4 chassis is sprayed with just two coats of this, so far it's been rather good! Certainly has lasted better than the powder coat on the
wishbones, which has already started to chip....
www.warnercars.com
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wilkingj
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| posted on 2/6/09 at 07:34 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by joolsmi16
What every you do. Do not use this sh*t http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm
I spent £118 on it sprayed 4 coats left to cure for 7 weeks and it scratches and comes away from the chassis!!!! sent all week clear coating hoping
to protect it.
If I have my time again, zinc or etch primer then chassis black paint..
Jools
The quality of ANY finish is always down to the quality of the preparation.
My Factory powder coating is flaking off in places and rock solid in others.
If I had my money again, I would have bought a bare chasis. Then had it shotblasted then powder coated or painted.
But definately the shot / sandblasting first.
You can't rub down with emery paper as well as a sandblaster can do it.
Its worth the extra £50 to prep the chassis properly.
If the metal is not chemically clean, and properly keyed, NOTHING will stick to it for very long. Trust me on this. My drinking partner is the
foreman sprayer of marshalls special bodies division. They spray military trucks, aeroplanes, and even busses!
He says this is true for any paint job.
Good prep = Good finish.
I've used tractor Chassis Black on my old landrover, and it was excellent. However Enamel is hard, and can chip, but so does Hammerite
(especially the smoothrite).
Again, the Prep is the key issue.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Jasongray5
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| posted on 2/6/09 at 08:13 AM |
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Cheers wilkingj. I will make sure that i get a good clean surface to paint onto, I have a small sand blaster so will prob use tractor paint and a
little bit of hardener just to make sure!
How hard can it be?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33261515@N03/sets/72157611049241239/
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ashg
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| posted on 2/6/09 at 09:23 PM |
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cloudy how many L of epoxy 121 did you use on the warner? also where did you buy it from? i found it on rust.co.uk looked cheep until they added on
the deliery and vat.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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Badger_McLetcher
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| posted on 3/6/09 at 10:29 AM |
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POR-15 is very very good and worth a look.
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 3/6/09 at 02:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jasongray5
Cheers wilkingj. I will make sure that i get a good clean surface to paint onto, I have a small sand blaster so will prob use tractor paint and a
little bit of hardener just to make sure!
Whoa Ha!... Steady there!!!!
If its a two pack resin paint, then you could perhaps dabble with the amount of hardener mixed in. I would not deviate from the manufacturers
instructions.
However, if its paint that does NOT use a hardener, then there is no use putting any in to the paint. It may even make it worse.
Two Pack paint should be cured in an oven (Temperature controlled Spray booth), and this is often at 100+ degrees for a defined amount of time. Two
pack paint dries and cures very slowly at ambient temperatures.
Putting more hardener in may just make it very hard and consequently very brittle, and liable to chippng easily.
I would stick to the manufacturers directions and reccomended doses of hardener / thinners etc.
Also most two pack paints gives off cyanide or other dangerous fumes (Its a chemical based resin paint). It has to be painted in a booth with proper
ventilation. The painter MUST be FULLY PROTECTED with a fully fitted suit and no skin open to the air in the spray bay, and breathing thru a filtered
Air (pressure) Fed Mask.
You can do your lungs (and the rest of you) a serious amount of damage by NOT taking the proper precautions.
This is why its now very hard to buy proper trade paint as a member of the public.
I am no expert, By I have had the riot act read to me by my mate who uses this stuff all day every day.
Read ALL the instructions, and Take ALL the precautions. Dont mess with it.
Still... Good Preparation is still better than poor or incorrect paint mixes.
Its worth making a good job of it by doing it correctly.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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l0rd
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 08:15 AM |
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A while back, i was quoted 170 quid to have a chassis galvanized.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 08:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by l0rd
A while back, i was quoted 170 quid to have a chassis galvanized.
How much to get it straightened afterwards? 
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iank
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 08:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by l0rd
A while back, i was quoted 170 quid to have a chassis galvanized.
Were they prepared to buy you a new one when it twisted like a pretzel?
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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l0rd
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 09:09 AM |
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I will ring and ask 
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wilkingj
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 11:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by iank
quote:
Originally posted by l0rd
A while back, i was quoted 170 quid to have a chassis galvanized.
Were they prepared to buy you a new one when it twisted like a pretzel?
The only way to stop it twisting during galvanising is to attach a heavy jig to the chassis to hold it all in place.
Trouble is they usually price Galving by weight of the object being galved. A Heavy Jig then makes the price rocket.
Galv is only good if you are not going to compromise the coating by drilling lots of holes in it.
Sandblast then decent paint or powder coating will be cheaper.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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