Nosey
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 10:30 AM |
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Advice and Opinion (Pics)
Hi All,
Getting close to finishing the chassis and am wondering if people could look over these pics (apologies for the poor quality). Car is for hillclimbs
so engine is moved over to passenger side & back as far as I could, English axle, ST bodywork. Any advice on glaring oversights or basic errors?
All opinions welcome.
 
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[Edited on 15/11/08 by Nosey]
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 10:41 AM |
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Looks ok to me.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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prawnabie
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 10:42 AM |
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Not that im an expert but will you need extra bracing around the rack mounts?
Shaun
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lsdweb
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 10:46 AM |
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Rear diagonal in the cage? Mandatory in the UK - Irish regs ae usually tighter again!
Wyn
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MikeR
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 10:47 AM |
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I'd strengthen your rear trailing arm links with a gusset. They have been known to break.
No diagonal in your rear hoop.
Rear stays look thin (is it all to MSA spec?)
Can't see seat belt mounts
Steering rack should have some triangulation across the width of the car
I'd also build in some ajustability to the steering rack mounting points to dial out bump steer.
Add top triangulation to the engine bay as its for racing.
Read up on the cymitrics / ausie chassis mods to strengthen the car. You can add strength for very little (or in some cases) no weight gain.
Put your shock brackets at the front on the outside of hte chassis rail (makes them slightly more upright).
Cap your tubes to stop water getting in.
Cant really see - but make sure you've got some diagonal steel in the transmission tunnel in case the prop breaks.
Weld in the triangular bits from the top of the rear shock mounts to the 3/4 diagonal going backwards to the rear.
I'll stop now (cause i can't see anything else). It looks good by the way and fantastic sized garage 
[Edited on 15/11/08 by MikeR]
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prawnabie
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 10:53 AM |
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Ah yeah
The trailing arm brackets def need some support on the outer half, they will bend and snap in not time - I have had this problem on all 4 of mine!
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Nosey
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 11:10 AM |
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Thanks for the quick replies lads.
All good points which have been taken on board, but the only thing that isn't planned/has me worried is the trailing arm supports. Is this a
matter of welding some plate (3mm to much?) where I have the yellow in the pic:
 
Description
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MikeR
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 11:57 AM |
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No.
I'll explain in a mo if i can find a picture.
(edited)
Sod the picture.
The trail arm bracket is half on the 1" steel and half floating in mid air. The half that is floating in mid air should have a gusset on its
outside edge to the edge of the 1" steel tube closest to the front of hte car.
Imagine trying to push the outside of the car side of the bracket towards the front of the car. It would bend about the weld onto the 1" tube.
By putting the gusset from the outside edge of the bracket you help stop this.
Personally, i've used a 12" bit of box cut in half and drilled for brackets. Adds more weight but it aint going to bend and break.
[Edited on 15/11/08 by MikeR]
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Nosey
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 12:16 PM |
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Ah yeah, MikeR, gotcha, hadn't thought of that, will add some gussets here. Thanks for the help
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Liam
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 09:19 PM |
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Big shame you couldn't have done the exhaust manifold to allow the engine bay top diagonal on the exhaust side.
Add a couple of diagonals from the lower-rear font-wishbone bracket nodes up to the top-front corners to triangulate the side of the front suspension
'box'.
Looks good.
Liam
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