flyingkiwi
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| posted on 5/2/04 at 09:06 PM |
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A mate from work dropped his bike the other day doing around 30mph, the road chewed through the ali flywheel cover with surprising ease, leaving a
gapping whole. I would have thought that after a couple of grounding's on sleeping policemen (a couple in yeovil require a tractor to drive over
without scraping the floor) you would find yourself with a new air conditioning unit, which I'm sure is a mot failure. I've gone for
steel, mainly as it was already fitted to the chassis when I brought it.
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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200mph
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| posted on 5/2/04 at 09:24 PM |
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but you could un-rivet a riveted chassis easier than you could un-weld a welded one?
Steel it is methinks
Mark
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TheGecko
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| posted on 6/2/04 at 02:33 AM |
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What some Australian builders have done (abd I will do too) is to use a steel floor with a few stiffening ribs folded into it which both stop the
"boing" and give you somewhere to bolt your seat rails to. I've had a quick serach for a photo with no success so I'll try an
illustration - hope this turns out OK.
__ __
____/ \______/ \____
Dominic
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blueshift
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| posted on 6/2/04 at 02:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 9904169
but you could un-rivet a riveted chassis easier than you could un-weld a welded one?
Maybe, but how would you drill the holes in the right places for the new floor? or would you drill new ones?
And if the floor is bonded as well as riveted it might be quite a farquhar to clean up.
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Mix
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| posted on 6/2/04 at 08:26 AM |
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By using the removed panels as templates
Mick
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Terrapin_racing
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| posted on 6/2/04 at 11:32 AM |
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Floor strengthening
You could always make a support tray for the seat using carbon/kevlar composite. It's very easy to do and I can supply details etc. A company
called CFS (on web) supply materials at reasonable cost.
cheers
Rob
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craig1410
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| posted on 6/2/04 at 01:00 PM |
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For seat supports, what is wrong with a couple of bits of steel square section across the floor in the appropriate place with a couple of brackets
welded directly to these and drilled to accept the bolts? That's what I've done and it was quick and painless.
Cheers,
Craig.
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blueshift
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| posted on 6/2/04 at 01:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mix
By using the removed panels as templates
doh. clever man.
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flyingkiwi
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| posted on 6/2/04 at 04:53 PM |
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to stop the panel panting, a couple of right angle stiffner's would do the trick. A bit of 16 swg ali strip bent through 90^ and riveted to the
inside of the footwell would provide plenty of support, plus you could hide it under the floor paneling (if your putting some in). Works on aircraft
panels.
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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ned
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| posted on 6/2/04 at 05:10 PM |
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I'm going for an ally floor, but have put in some extra chassis bars to strengthen the floor area and triangulate to the dif mounting points for
strength aswell.
Not quite finished as the welder packed in, but heres a pic:
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 6/2/04 at 08:07 PM |
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I dont think triangulation adds much there ned.
what it does do is put obstructions on the floor where your feet should go, unless you have a false floor on top.
Also, if you hadnt used triagluars and had just used two bars across where your seat would go, you would have two nice bars to 4 point bolt your seat
to.
atb
steve
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