Hi Guys,

Got myself a nice full beam brakes axle so will be making a lighweight trailer soon.

Just need some help with the plans.

It will be 5'9" between the wheels and about 13' long - Indy will be the biggest thing to go on it.

My thinking is:

2" x 2" angle down each side on top of the axle.

2" x 2" box across each end.

2 lengths of 2" x 2" angle across, but in-between the axle and the box at each end.

2" x 2" box at the front to form a triangle to hold the coupling.

Some 19mm square down each side from the front and back corner to the top of where the wheel arch will be (to triangulate to stop each end flapping about).

How does that sound?

Anyone any good with some pics?

Cheers,

Pat...

Here's the axle:
Rescued attachment 35_1_b.JPG

Oh yeah, bed will be done after and will basically be two fixed full length planks and then two shorter planks for ramps that live in between the other two planks when not being ramps.

Pat...

Have a look at http://locost7.info/mirror/trailer.php
I bought this trailer (and the clubman that goes on it ) from Cameron.

It all works well. Cameron used to trailer the clubbie from Cairns to Sydney ( about 2800kms each way) - I've only done Cairns to home (1800kms)

Cheers.

Do you know what sections of steel it's made from?

Thanks.

Pat...

I have no idea what the product is called in UK but I have a 6.5'x10' flatbed trailer that I'm about to lengthen to haul my LC7. The decking is Bar Grating comonly used as catwalk decking. This is the handiest trailer I have ever had for hauling everything. Because of the construction of the deck the entire deck is a tie down point. It's nice enough that when I got a 16' trailer that had a bad wood deck I replaced the wood with bar grating. Welded to the frame it becomes a structurel member.




That same trailer has a single heavy gauge 2x3 tube from the crossmember that hold the front spring mounts, in your case i would attach directly to the axle. It extends fwd about 1.5' further than half the width of my truck. This allows the trailer to jack knife to over 90 deg without hitting anything. It was on old boat trailer that had a deck added.

[Edited on 25/5/06 by locostv8]

i used 50x50x3mm box and it wasnt strong enough to use as a flat bed. Id either use 4 lengths lengthways next time (sat on the axle) or use 50x75. All adds to the weight unfortunately.

t's not going to be a flat bed though!

Pat...

I would use 4x2 box to go full length attached to the axel.
4x2 box to make the A-frame from the axel to the tow hitch.
4x2 box across the front
2x2 box across the rear
2x2 angle to make the supports for the bed/s.
2x2 angle for the ramps.
Use 3mm steel to keep the weight down.
The big box is to stop the trailer from bending when you are loading/unloading the car.

[Edited on 25/5/06 by owelly]

So:

1) Build the perimiter box with 4x2 box.

2) Bolt axle to middle.

3) 2 additional cross braces of 2x2 angle between the axle and the front and the axle and the back.

4) The A frame from 4x2.

5) Two planks of whatever we use can then just bolt on top.

6) Additional triangulation above (or under) each side from front to back out of 19mm SHS.

7) Will we need this extra triangulation if using 4x2 box on end ???

Are we getting somewhere before I draw up some pics?

Pat...

this is mine before i put the top on.
Rescued attachment trailer 006.JPG

Hi Pat,

How about 50 x 50 x 3 box. (box is stronger than angle)

like this?


If the axle doesn't fit through, then weld in the red bit after fitting the axle.


hth

Paul G
Rescued attachment trailer-chassis.jpg

Thanks Paul.

More thoughts to consider!

Once we get a nice easy light design (by committee on here), it should be adaptable for single suspension unit as well and everyone can make one!

How's this train of though out of 50x50 box (see following pic) ???

Can triangulate underneath to the bottom mountings of the axle with smaller section.

Pat...
Rescued attachment trailer.jpg

thats an excellent start pat, exactly how i modified my future plans. The 4 lengths lengthways would probably be strong enough by themselves for a bec, but some 1" bracing is sure to do the job, pauls idea looks neat.

Thanks J.

Do you have the weights / metre handy for the box section?

Passed my PAT testing (no pun intended) yesterday - 97%. Some "real" electricians on the course failed and the pass mark was only 66% - Scary or what.

Pat...

good news! is that full 16th edition you did? or domestic installer level a/b?

weights, off the otp of my head, is 4x the normal 1" 16g. About 1kg per foot iirc?

Naa, it was an optional extra.

Halfway through my 16th at the mo and when I've passed that, I'll do the 2 year domestic installation.

Pat...

No one noticed I'd drawn my axle on pointing the wrong way!

Pat...

ahh... i got level b from a 4 day course Still need to do two site inspections to go it alone with the nic, which is bad, cos i dont think anything ive done so far would stand up to SVA style scrutiny!

quote:

---

Originally posted by Avoneer
No one noticed I'd drawn my axle on pointing the wrong way!

Pat...

---

look here for details on calculating axle location etc

By using 4x2 for the longditudinal bits, you shouldn't need any extra triangulation.
As a rule, I make the centre of the the axel in the center of the bed. That means the trailing hubs are just behind central which works.

But, here's food for thought........
I am replacing my twin axel big plant trailer with a single axle item (I have no more big plants).
I have a braked axle and I intend to craft the trailer deck out of 2mm steel sheet.
The plan is to get my local friendly fabrication company to guillotine the steel to shape and then fold it to my design. When I say design, I mean scribble on a beermat.

So from two sheets of 8x4 steel, I can get four pieces bent as per the drawing.
Two pieces the full 8' long and two at 4' long.
By welding the short one to the end of the long ones, I will have two decks 12' long.
An A-frame made from 4x2 box to sit it all on and the job is a carrot. The bends inboard are there to fix a wooden centre to the deck to make it a flat bed.
I hope this makes sense!!

I like the drop in centre section.

A couple of points though.

I would keep it as low as you can. That's the disadvantage of using deep beams.
It all adds to the height. My own trailer uses mini wheels to keep it low.
Easier to load if it's low as well.

Also, the length. You only need the wheels on, if the front and back of a car
overhang a tad it doesn't matter.

Just my 2p

Paul G

You're right about the length of course, but for my needs, 12' of bed is needed.
I also use 10" wheels and by mounting the axle to the A-frame which is attached to the towhitch, it makes the ball centre about 14.5" which is about right!