I've read a lot of items on making your own coilovers using mini shock-absorbers as a basis and then welding spring platforms etc to these.
Has anyone actually used these on a car for any period of time?
I'm considering having a go since this will otherwise be very expensive but most discussions seem to stess the writer hasn't actually used
them "in anger".
Sounds dodgy to me mate!
I reckon on of the cheapest ways to do it is to use motorbike shocks. You're looking at similar spring weights to what youd need in a light 7
(depending on leverage and stuff) and in most cases you get full comp / rebound adjustment and sometimes trick remote air resrvoirs with even more
adjustability for about £20 each on ebay!
I know Marc at MNR was talking about them when I spoke to him a while back so it might be worth dropping him a line...?
Geoff
I used bike shocks on the rear. They were $10 each off eBay. Thing is, they do require a reduction in spring rate because bike dampers are around
554lbs/in.
Look at my website and you can see a CAD drawing of what I did. If you go to the 'Old.Work' section, you can see some of the shots in
action.
Otherwise, modifying dampers sounds a bit questionable to me too.
--HTH, Chris
I have a pair of modified mini dampers on the rear of my car at present.They do the job ok but the damping is to soft to be ideal .I found some thick
wall tube that was a good fit over the body and cut a thread on the od of it. I then made upper and lower spring seats from ally.I have fitted 160lb
2.25 inch springs and the ride and grip is ok one up, but seems a little under damped with a passenger as i have bottomed it out on occasions.
Paul.
Do a Google search on:Clubman Builders Resource
I think they have some info on modyfied Mini shocks
Cheers Cita
You can definitely find some motorcycle shocks with the right spring rate for the back . I got some Hagon shocks intended for the back of a Harley
from ebay they seem ok on the car but I don't know how they will be on the road (still building) for the front I have some monoshocks from a RG
250 suzuki these have lighter springs than the R1 /6 ect that others have sugested . I have them mounted at a shallower angle because I wanted the
mount on the A arm as close to the lower ball joint as posible . this should ballance out slighly to high rated spring . (I hope )
Best wishes
Iain
Rescued attachment toyo lite ace upright .jpg
I made my own coil overs, but used the lower monting of the shock to secure the treaded pipe to the shock.
Used good quality gas shocks.
See my archive.
Regarding the shock pictured above, it looks like it's mounted in a "falling rate" configuration. If you still can, move the top mount
outboard as far as possible. As the shock compresses you want the angle between the lower arm and the shock body to approach 90 degress but to not
pass through it.
[Edited on 6/17/05 by kb58]
hi there KB58
I hear what you are saying but I do not understand why you are saying it . I have as yet only tacked the top mount for my shock but As i see it the
only effect the mounting angle will have is to lower the effective wheel rate relative to the spring rate of the shock . The actual angle is about 45
degrees and it looks much shallower in the picture . i did it like this to have a much straighter load path and less tendency for the A Arm to be
under a bending load from the suspension loads .even though mine are made of heavier stuff than the book design.
Best wishes
Iain
Hey Kango, is that Gabriels Gasryders that you're using?
How exactly did you modify them?
quote:
Sounds dodgy to me mate!
would just point out that those concerned with this topic would do well to call MNR and get a price on a set of alloy, adjustable platform, adjustable damping Protech shocks. A VERY good deal indeed!
Only cut the protective cover off over the shaft. The adjustable base bolts onlt the lower shock mounting.
No welding to the shock!