You'l need a big bender
Geoff
Rescued attachment bender.jpg
Im looking to bend 1.680 DOM steel.
I have a pipe bender but the die is correctly sized. Any advice before I screw up $300 in tubing?
Thanks
`Jonathan
Ask at the car fab shops in your area, even places that make off-road type cars. Since you're in GA, find a stock car fab shop. I had mine bent
at a place that makes nothing but roll-cages, AutoPower in San Diego. If you fax them a drawing they can make it and ship it to you. They do it all
the time.
It was about the only part of my car that I didn't even want to attempt on my own...
[Edited on 5/20/05 by kb58]
There are NO fab shops in my area!
I spent the day today trying to find a place with a ball joint reamer FOR AMERICAN CARS!~ Its damn standard for 99% of american cars.. Nobody had it..
and I asked about cages and Nobody will just do bends for me.. They want the entire cage.. AKA $1200 for something I can do for $120
Bending 50mm CDS is hard!
You'l need a big bender
Geoff
Rescued attachment bender.jpg
Try bending it round the back of your neck instead of over your knee 
.
Just a thought, if you could find an off the shelf roll bar with the right width and similar height, you might be able to modify it for a seven.
Jambojeef - is that a pic of the big bender?
Liam would you like to comment?!
I used to have that problem before I realised that if you anneal the tube to some extent first, it works much better.
heat it to dull red for a length of around 10 inches in the area of the bend, then bend it while it's still pretty hot. Bends a treat then.
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
I used to have that problem before I realised that if you anneal the tube to some extent first, it works much better.
heat it to dull red for a length of around 10 inches in the area of the bend, then bend it while it's still pretty hot. Bends a treat then.
The newer stainless exhaust tube is pretty tough. A good muffler shop might be able to help.
For fabrication look under Erectors... online or in the phone book.
Industrial electricians also bend heavy wall conduit on occasion.
Try calling a few auto custom shops. Tuners etc. Or spend Friday/Staurday night at the local dirt track.
quote:
Originally posted by timf
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
I used to have that problem before I realised that if you anneal the tube to some extent first, it works much better.
heat it to dull red for a length of around 10 inches in the area of the bend, then bend it while it's still pretty hot. Bends a treat then.
but if you want one thats msa approved then it has to be cold worked.
quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Jambojeef - is that a pic of the big bender?
I dunno if it would pass SVA but i made the roll bar of my single seater with 50mm,3mm wall ellbows welded together.They cost close to nothing and you
only need a flat surface for layout.
With the choice of 90°-45° etc.. you can pretty much make any shape you want.
Cheers Cita
If you used a 12 ton hydraulic bender like the Machine Mart one,
it's a PIPE bender. The 2" die refers to the internal diameter.
The external diameter is 2 3/8" - approx. 5mm wall thickness.
quote:
Originally posted by timf
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
I used to have that problem before I realised that if you anneal the tube to some extent first, it works much better.
heat it to dull red for a length of around 10 inches in the area of the bend, then bend it while it's still pretty hot. Bends a treat then.
but if you want one thats msa approved then it has to be cold worked.
quote:
If you used a 12 ton hydraulic bender like the Machine Mart one,
it's a PIPE bender. The 2" die refers to the internal diameter.
The external diameter is 2 3/8" - approx. 5mm wall thickness.
quote:
If you try and bend un-annealed CDS in any bender, it will either crack or kink.
Well that explains something anyway!
Geoff
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
If you try and bend un-annealed CDS in any bender, it will either crack or kink.
What was the exact steel spec?
I said un-annealed, that was quite probably annealed tube (not by you, by the people that made it!)
What was the code for the tube, should be CFS3 followed by a pair of letters, BK is cold finished, as finished (will crack/kink) BKW is cold finished
soft condition, (will still probably crack or kink) GBK or GZF are annealed, will bend fine.
NBK or NZF are normalised, and to be honest I have still kinked this in a proper bender.