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Painting chassis.
Danozeman - 15/3/05 at 07:28 PM

What do u chaps reckon. When i paint my chassis do u think it needs red oxiding before paining with hammerite straight to meal??

Mark Allanson - 15/3/05 at 07:30 PM

Don't put hammerite anywhere near your car, leave it for a rusty garden gate

britishtrident - 15/3/05 at 07:41 PM

You must prime before Hammerite as Hammerite dosen't seal the surface fully --- thats why it dosen't bubble.

Either zinc rich or red oxide 2 coats lightly smooth over then a light spray with grey primer ------- I used aerosol £1.00 each from Poundland after which its up to you what top coat you want but hammerite isn't anything like as good (or as toxic) as it was 30 years ago.

theconrodkid - 15/3/05 at 07:46 PM

after red oxide(use a small roller)i used household gloss from dulux,tough as old boots and twice as smelly

big_wasa - 15/3/05 at 07:47 PM

gloss black garage enamle sets very hard and shiny but does take ages to go off....

Danozeman - 15/3/05 at 09:25 PM

Ive got some nice thick black enamal. I think il use that after a couple of coats of red oxide then..

Cheers

Danozeman - 15/3/05 at 10:21 PM

britishtrident :- is that pundland stuff anygood?

the JoKeR - 15/3/05 at 11:08 PM

Does anybody have any experience with powder coating the framework? I am considering it for the durability.

Hellfire - 16/3/05 at 12:36 AM

Our's is powder coated... but it wasn't on the road for long enough to really give any accurate feedback for you. I does seem to reduce imperfections a little due to it's thickness, but it depends on what you want and how much you want to pay.

kb58 - 16/3/05 at 01:18 AM

quote:
Originally posted by the JoKeR
Does anybody have any experience with powder coating the framework? I am considering it for the durability.


I powdercoated my frame but haven't driven it yet. However I have given it several unintentional "impact tests" with the wrench. Amazing stuff. Just make sure to get the right coating. There's probably a dozen different types of powder, epoxy being the ultimate but unfortunately it's very poor for UV exposure. For sun exposure the next best coating is TGIC Polyester. I used Dupont. I give them a big thumbs up.

britishtrident - 16/3/05 at 08:29 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Danozeman
britishtrident :- is that pundland stuff anygood?



YES great sprays sticks and covers well --- I haven't tried the gloss black only the grey primer.

The are cheap for WD40, 3 in 1 Penetrating Oil also and the Epoxy adhesive is vedry good.

ayoungman - 16/3/05 at 09:54 AM

search the forum for synthetic enamel. Lots of posts about it in the past. I've used it to paint my chassis. See my archive for examples. Very good paint, used to call it tractor paint. Rescued attachment front of chassis.JPG
Rescued attachment front of chassis.JPG

ned - 16/3/05 at 09:55 AM

i'm geting mine powder coated in about a week, it isn't cheap, but i need it shot blasting anyway to remove all the rust before painting, then prices i got for aersols/spray paint weren't a lot cheaper, then it's all the time and prep work, depends what price you put on yer own time and equipment. painting on is cheaper, but still time consuming and most chassis i've seen hand painted always have brush marks which looks a bit amateur to me.

Ned.

Alan B - 16/3/05 at 12:51 PM

Powder coating is very nice, but........

Make sure ALL your welding is finished...it doesn't touch up well...

MikeR - 16/3/05 at 01:05 PM

Ned, if you don't mind me asking what coating are you gettnig and how much is it costing? I'm looking at getting mine done and want an idea of what is an ok price.

ned - 16/3/05 at 01:08 PM

black powder coating, don't know what type. been given a ballpark quote of £200-250 for grit blasting and powdercoating. i have heard of it cheaper, prob up north, but this is surrey and it's nearby/convenient..

it works out (and i have had other quotes in surrey/sussex independantly) for £80-100 for blasting and £100-150 for powder coating.

as said the blasting is to get all the surface rust AND give the paint something to key onto which i think is important to stop it chipping off too easily.

Ned.

[Edited on 16/3/05 by ned]

NS Dev - 16/3/05 at 01:09 PM

quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
Ned, if you don't mind me asking what coating are you gettnig and how much is it costing? I'm looking at getting mine done and want an idea of what is an ok price.


give me a call at the weekend Mike, a certain friend of mine gets a lot of powdercoating done on kit car chassis ata good rate.

clbarclay - 16/3/05 at 01:30 PM

quote:
Originally posted by ned
as said the blasting is to get all the surface rust AND give the paint something to key onto which i think is important to stop it chipping off too easily.



Will the grit blasting remove any paint already on the chassis?

[Edited on 16/3/05 by clbarclay]

NS Dev - 16/3/05 at 01:33 PM

ooohhhhh yes!!!!!!!!

MikeR - 16/3/05 at 07:14 PM

now how do you know that ???????

wouldn't have something to do with the grit blaster you've built yourself would it?


phone call at the weekend will be forthcoming (are you going to mallory on Sunday?) - perhaps we could try and merge things together with roll bar manufacture? really getting keen to get going again!

Liam - 16/3/05 at 07:57 PM

quote:
Originally posted by ned
...but i need it shot blasting anyway to remove all the rust before painting...


That's the main reason I went for POR 15 and I'm very happy with the result. Dont need to remove the rust. Prep is a light rub to remove loose rust and maybe a bit of degreasing if you've got axle grease all over certain bits like I had, then a squirt with their priming stuff and a rinse (yes rinse - in water). Then when it's bone dry brush or spray.

It's tough but not quite as tough as my powder coated wishbones. Withstands most knocks but i've scratched it a bit dragging gearboxes over it and stuff. But then i've scratched me powdered wishbones in a similar way too, and the POR 15 can be touched up easily.

Cost about 35 squid I think for the stuff (which was way more than enough) and took 2 fullish days to do. Good stuff.

Liam

stephen_gusterson - 16/3/05 at 07:59 PM

quote:
Originally posted by the JoKeR
Does anybody have any experience with powder coating the framework? I am considering it for the durability.


i had my bike powder coated. i wouldnt say it was any more durable than any other kind of paint. poweder coating is a delivery system, not an invincible paint

atb

steve

Digger Barnes - 16/3/05 at 08:10 PM

I have had a number of motorcycle frames powder coated with varying durability.

The problem I had with one bike was that a small scratch in the surface allowed water in and the stuff just came off in big sheets after a few months. On the other hand I have had other frames chromate primed before coating and this seemed to solve the problem.

But now I just have em painted with a good quality 2 pack as the finish in my experience is far better (although I am sure there are some good powder coats out there). I suppose it just depends on how important it is to keep it shiny and how much it costs

Danozeman - 16/3/05 at 09:18 PM

I was gonna get mine powder coated but 2 things put me off..
1 the price and
2 if it chips it doesnt touch up very well.

Im trying to stick relativley to the "locost" theme..

hector - 16/3/05 at 09:44 PM

just painted my chassis with international enamel paint, is is very glossy and leaves no brush marks in it, and the funniest bit is that it is garage door enamel, but the finish is S~'t hot for brush paint!!
Am just layin my loom in for now, anyone know best place to get the split conduit and p clips???