gorrilla to tighten the nut
[Edited on 8/9/04 by timf]
As an alternative to using rivnuts for securing bodywork and other bits n pieces I want to weld some captive threads/bolts onto my chassis. Just
wondering who's done this and how they did it.
Do you drill through the tube from the other side, poke the bolt through and then weld the head on the back of the tube and/or on the top as well? I
don't want the thread welded at the bottom if i can help it as I want things to sit flat against the tube eg scuttle/nose etc.
Also, I want to do this for a chassis earth point, where is the best place to put it (near the battery in the engine bay?) and what size bolt is most
common for battery size earth cables?
cheers,
NEd.
ned why not
drill hole in chassis thread nut onto bolt
insert bolt /nut combo so that nut sits against chassis. clamp bolt to hold it in place weld nut to chassis
m8 is a good size for main earth else use m6 for usual earth points
Tim
Tim,
nice alternative, but I wanted the bolt captive as opposed to the nut, then i can seal the bolt in situ so nothing can get inside the chassis which
might be the case if the bolt comes in and out. i also wanted to have the bolts sticking out so i can locate the scuttle etc onto it. I also want to
weld on some metal dowels/pins to help locate the bonnet.
Ned.
if you dont weld both sides it will weaken the chassis tube. the alternatice is to weld a sleve tube into the chassis on both sides and then weld the
bolt head on one side, it also has the advantage that you dont stand the chance of squashing the chassis tube it you get a
gorrilla to tighten the nut
[Edited on 8/9/04 by timf]
Ive done it the other way round Ned welding the nut into place,I would think doing it tother way round would give you problems if you snapped the
bolt.
Just my tupennorth worth.
Cheers,
Bob
like the idea of welding in a sleeve, only thing is where to source the tube from...
small quantities of m6 + m8 id tube anyone?
Ned.
split rivet, if you snap the bolt you'd just grind the head off the nut on the back of the tube where you welded it and it would come out, then
weld in a replacement!
[Edited on 8/9/04 by ned]
how much dou you need
and an address
Tim,
you have u2u...
Ned.
Ned,
The big B&Q's do quite a variety of metal tube, in meter lengths. It's not the cheapest in the world though.
mm, we have a b&q warehouse just round the corner, i may pay them a visit this evening..
thanks monkeyhunter!
ive bought several bits of metal from my b and q warehouse in northampton. A fair selection of flat round and rhs in metre and 2 metre lenghths. Its
all seemed tho...
atb
steve
quote:
Originally posted by ned
mm, we have a whorehouse just round the corner, i may pay them a visit this evening..
oi! gusters, you may be bored at work, but that old trick of editing someone else's quote wears thin after a while 
Ned.
quote:
Originally posted by ned
oi! gusters, you may be bored at work, but that old trick of wearing someone else's wears thin after a while
Ned.
quote:
Originally posted by ned
oi! gusters, you may be bored at work, but that old trick of editing someone else's quote wears thin after a while
Ned.
but i don't intentionally mis-quote other people
quote:
Originally posted by ned
but i don't intentionally mis-quote other people
quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
PS - I think timf may have done me in the past........
just following you lead steve:
[img][/img]
Steve,
with you being so bored, you could at least update the pics on your website, the 'latest progress' shows pics a week short of being a year
old
Ned.
[Edited on 8/9/04 by ned]
did i ever deny it either
Ned.
I cant do that from work
thanks for looking tho.
The stuff you wont really see, and wouldnt be interesting to most on this site are :
1. getting granada wiper system to fit.
2. making up rear grp wings (thats on site)
3. making up running boards.
4. making up chassis / sub frame under above to allow to take step-on weight.
5. trimming whole interior, inc learning how to use a sewing machine!
6. making up doors, including fabricating all lock mechanism internals and striker system to SVA (double locking) standards. Fitting said doors to
car.
7. Aligning / setting up suspension.
8. fitting all brake pipes and wiring up abs system.
9. making up windscreen frame
Thats just a few things since the last update. I know your trying to infer I post and dont build, but you struck out there!
In the main, as my car is so 'un locost' - see items above - I dont think there is too much point putting that kinda stuff on the site, or
reporting the progress here. How to make doors, runnning boards, abs systems, etc, would be of no interest on this site.
touche.
atb
zorro
quote:
Originally posted by ned
Steve,
with you being so bored, you could at least update the pics on your website, the 'latest progress' shows pics a week short of being a year old
Ned.
[Edited on 8/9/04 by ned]
Steve,
I wasn't trying to infer that you post but aren't building, I was inferring that you post, but haven't updated your website in nearly a
year I recall you mentioning a couple of weeks ago that your doors and interior were done, was just looking I haven't updated my site in a
while either, I just don't have any dates on it so no one is any the wiser as to how long it's been
Ned.
[Edited on 8/9/04 by ned]
I really do need to wheel the car out and bolt bits on and take more pics. However, last time I did that - re my avatar - all the local kids took an
interest and it was a pita explaining what it was and the like. Subsequently I havnt been a$$ed to do it!
Tonight im gonna brush paint the (2 off) running board chassis before watching the england fiasco on tv.
Those chassis, for each running board, are made up of 16 bits of 16mm rhs a piece. Its stuff like this that really takes up the time. The 10mm thick
(8 layers) grp boards fit over these.
Im about a week away from making up the buck for the front wings. This thing will be about 300mm wide and 2 mtrs long. Takes the bodywork from the
running boards, up and over the wheels to the front. Bit like wrap over clam shells. Making up the wings is likelly to take, off and on, best part of
6 weeks methinks.
Again, std locost, just buy in two cycle wings.......
The more I do, the more I realise that a book locost is a very compact minimalist easy to make design. COmpared to my deviant car.
atb
steve
[Edited on 8/9/04 by stephen_gusterson]
hehehe, funny guys.
Another idea - use the steel rivet nuts on the tube. After installing put a couple of tacks around the lip and grind them down flush.
I've done that on a couple that I was afraid might spin some day where it would be a real pain to get them apart.
Ned, you don't really want to be making too many holes in your chassis unless you're goin to weld them up again.
A captive nut is nearly always better than a captive bolt (less susceptible to getting yourself caught on it for a start).
I have earth straps with 8mm, 10mm and 12mm holes in them.
If you must have a captive bolt with clear threads right up to the chassis, why not drill a hole right through, tap it, screw the bolt in from the
rear and braze/silver solder it in place on both sides of the tube. The bronze/solder won't impede the threads if done neatly and you can then
cut the head off the bolt too.
Or as someone mentioned somewhere above, weld a crush tube in. The wall of the crush tube should be at least as thick as the tube it's inserted
through.
These blind fasteners may be of some use.
i've welded the head of a bolt onto the outside of a chassis tube several times in my build, to aviod drilling the chassis weak. then again, ive
also drilled thru many times too. when ive put the bolt thru a bar i dont weld the thread in, just the head. its doesnt matter on the less structural
tubes.
how about welding small tabs on, of say 3mm strip, and then welding bolts and nuts onto these.
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
how about welding small tabs on, of say 3mm strip, and then welding bolts and nuts onto these.
Thats what I did at the rear, a tab at each side.
At the front I used the inside of the headlight brackets.